Oil for break-in after top end rebuild 1982 GPz750

My guess would be PTFE which is commonly called teflon. For a while, they were putting that powder into a lot of oil additives claiming it reduced friction. Slick 50 was the most notorious. It doesn't actually do anything floating around because it can't bond to any surface.

It might also be moly (molybdendum disulphide) which is currently being put in most motor oils, effectiveness never proven but does load up clutches and ruin them.

The green tint when applies to well cleaned bores gives a clue to it's chemistry, short of getting custom made rings it is my best hope I think.

(anyone got a set of NOS 61mm Wiseco rings, the old desigh XC)

I'd use a 240 grit dingo ball hone. Nothing smoother. You want some tooth on the bore to bite into the rings. Apparently you are not supposed to use any lubricant on the cylinder or rings other than this dry lube stuff either. A quick google search suggests the powder stuff is moly.

Hope it works out for you.

Block was freshly bored and honed, the honing is critical too. I have a drill mounted honing tool but I won't be using it much.

Agreed on not using oil on the bores, also a non synthetic or running-in oil for the first few hundred miles.

Just like oil, everyone seems to have their own ideas about break-in. Drag racers just rag the nuts off them from new.
The shut off throttle overrun part is important too, the vacuum pulls the rings in the other direction to open throttle.

Maybe in the last year I saw a performance show on TV where they were at the chevy factory assembling the pistons in the block of the new copo 427 motor and they had the pistons dripping in oil before they put the compressers on them and ran a rag on a stick first through the bore that were soaked it oil and I mean soaked.... personely I'm glad I used a half a dozen big drops of reg Valvoline on each cyl and each piston and rings before slapping mine together (assembly lube on the rod and pin and cams too) I swear I get a chill up and down my neck when I read someone is leaving theirs dry....... Was I right ? NO way am I gonna say yes ..... Most on here including you guys make me look like a 3rd grader in college just reporting what I saw and how I feel about it.

We all have our own way. I lubed the cylinders and put a little in two but forgot to do on the other two. I didn't realize it until I had it together. I will only know when I pull it apart again.
Steve

... through the bore that were soaked it oil and I mean soaked..

Remember old air cooled motors run at different clearances than a modern water cooled motor, also modern piston design is thin rings and a 'slipper' style with less skirt to reduce friction. Same but different...

I too am uncomfortable at running them dry but my opinion on this has changed over the years. Within minutes the bores and rings will be well oiled -it is about that initial break-in that is critical I think.

KZB2 650 wrote: Maybe in the last year I saw a performance show on TV where they were at the chevy factory assembling the pistons in the block of the new copo 427 motor and they had the pistons dripping in oil before they put the compressers on them and ran a rag on a stick first through the bore that were soaked it oil and I mean soaked....

Yeah, I know this ancient dinosaur who rebuilt his 750 twin motor 7 years ago and saturated the pistons and rings in a 50-50 mix of valvoline and STP oil treatment..... and coated the cylinder walls as well. But in the dinosaur's defense, that was what we used for assembly lube building engines back in the 60's.

BTW: strangely enough, the motor broke in perfectly, has perfect compression and doesn't use a drop of oil. I suspect breaking in isn't as difficult as some think or else there would be a lot more cars and bikes blowing oil smoke.