Oil for break-in after top end rebuild 1982 GPz750

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31 Dec 2015 12:11 #705051 by Madtrout
Any opinions about which oil to use for seating new rings? I usually use Spectro Golden 10-40. Works very well. Minimal wear after 87,000 miles. Just wondering if it is too slick for break in. Thanks, and Happy New Year, Mark

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  • SWest
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31 Dec 2015 12:19 #705053 by SWest
I'd use cheap store brand oil. 10-40/5-30. Dump it after 500 miles.
Steve

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31 Dec 2015 14:41 #705072 by Nessism

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  • SWest
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31 Dec 2015 14:49 #705074 by SWest
I use that now after I dumped the cheap stuff. Doing another oil change and a tire change too. Just not burning oil anymore. Looking at those clutch plates, I could see some aluminum left over from the near cam chain disaster caused by that APE tensioner. The stock one is doing fine.
Steve

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  • ThatGPzGuy
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31 Dec 2015 15:59 #705079 by ThatGPzGuy
I've always heard to never use synthetic oil to break in an engine. The rings will take much longer to seat...I use cheap, dino oil and then switch to the good stuff (like rotella) after a few hundred miles.

Jim
North GA
2016 Yamaha FJR1300ES
1982 GPz750 R1
1974 Kawasaki H1
1976 Kawasaki KZ400
1979 Yamaha XS650 cafe'
2001 KZ1000P
2001 Yamaha YZ426
1981 Honda XR200 stroked in an '89 CR125 chassis
1965 Mustang
1967 Triumph GT6
1976 Bronco
"If you didn't build it, it's not really yours"

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31 Dec 2015 17:30 #705086 by Madtrout
Thanks for all of your input. All the best, Mark

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31 Dec 2015 21:55 #705106 by bountyhunter
Replied by bountyhunter on topic Oil for break-in after top end rebuild 1982 GPz750

swest wrote: I'd use cheap store brand oil. 10-40/5-30. Dump it after 500 miles.
Steve

Same thing I did except I added some STP to juice up the ZDDP content during break in. I think I used 10-40 Valvoline.

1979 KZ-750 Twin

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31 Dec 2015 21:57 #705107 by bountyhunter
Replied by bountyhunter on topic Oil for break-in after top end rebuild 1982 GPz750

ThatGPzGuy wrote: I've always heard to never use synthetic oil to break in an engine. The rings will take much longer to seat..

I have read that a bunch of places. But I never saw any actual data to support it and the oil makers say it's baloney. I would never use synthetic for break in because I am too cheap to put in $40 worth of oil I am going to dump after 100 miles.

1979 KZ-750 Twin

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01 Jan 2016 10:33 #705161 by TexasKZ
I have also never seen any hard evidence that fully synthetic oil is a problem for break in. More and more cars come with it from the factory. Yes, I know, new technology,water cooled et cetera.

What I find puzzling is guys who will spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on an engine rebuild in their most prized possession and then fill it with the cheapest oil available during the most critical moments of the engine's life.

1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough

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  • SWest
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01 Jan 2016 10:49 #705165 by SWest
I do it to seat the rings then puke out the oil with all the crap that's in it.
Steve

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01 Jan 2016 12:10 #705189 by Madtrout
I think I'll go with Spectro 4 for break-in (non synthetic), and then switch back to Spectro Gold (semi-synthetic). Keep it in the family

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01 Jan 2016 16:05 #705223 by redhawk4
If we are talking about just the rings, you don't want too much lubrication as it seems the problem with rings not seating is caused by to little load and/or too slick a lubrication. Perhaps it's the bigger clearances in an aircooled motor compared to today's water cooled engines, but it is certainly a common problem to find rings not sealing on rebored cylinders. On the Vintage Triumph forum there are a lot of threads where people end up with rebuilt motors that smoke and they advocate over there some specific procedures to ensure they seal, no idling and riding with plenty of load from outset.

The ZDDP is needed mostly for cam break in with solid lifters and also needed for normal running with solid lifters. The only thing to watch using a cheaper oil is if it's a car oil they can contain additives that can damage your clutch plates. Rotella is the best bang for your buck IMO, about $13 for a gallon and is often used as a break in oil because of the ZDDP and is also JASO approved which means it's OK for a wet clutch. The high detergent content of diesel engine oils are also good for keeping any contamination, following a rebuild, in suspension so it comes out when you change the oil.

1978 KZ1000A2 Wiseco 1075 kit
1977 KZ650B1
1973 Triumph Tiger TR7V
1968 BSA Victor Special 441
2015 Triumph Thunderbird LT
1980 Suzuki SP400

Old enough to know better, still too young to care

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