Oil for break-in after top end rebuild 1982 GPz750

OR wants $25 a gallon and AZ gets $17. Guess I'm going to WM.
Steve

When I did my motor I fired it up on Rotella 15-40 ran it long enough for
it to idle no choke then did a drain and fill then put a fan on ran about 10 min.
and did a oil and filter change then went and did a few WFO blasted down the street
and changed it again.

I do change my oil every time I go to the track so lets see about 25 mile's on it and the
next oil change will be number eight

Rotella 15W-40 for diesel engines

zukdave wrote: When I did my motor I fired it up on Rotella 15-40 ran it long enough for
it to idle no choke then did a drain and fill then put a fan on ran about 10 min.
and did a oil and filter change then went and did a few WFO blasted down the street
and changed it again.

I do change my oil every time I go to the track so lets see about 25 mile's on it and the
next oil change will be number eight

Hey man, there is this thing called an OIL FILTER in the system which removes particulate matter down to the low single digit micron level. Not that recycling oil is bad mind you, some container ship is probably very happy with the quality of your discarded oil.

I think the deal with using synthetic oil in a new engine is that its ok as long as you have the proper rings, clearances and cylinder wall finish but the stock pistons & rings wont seal unless you have all of the above. Just my opinion, I use the Rotella also

Nessism being I drag race mine I change it that offen to rinse the clutch
fiber out of the motor. I go with nice new oil and when I get home the oils
black from sliding the clutch.

most guys do not drag race there motors if they did they would dump the oil after a few pases .the heat from the clutch is a enough to break down the oil.i would just to make sure my clutch would lock up.new oil is cheap.


es

This is an interesting topic, ring break-in is critical and there are differing opinions.

I have an old Wiseco XC GPz615 piston kit and the rings are NLA - there was a thread on this subject a few years ago and the same used pistons were later gifted to me by a member here (thanks Corey)

Ring gaps are all within spec, I asked total seal about it - presumably these guys know piston rings, and their recommendation was, in the absence of a new ring set they can't supply, to use their dry break-in lubricant powder and a non synthetic oil initially. This motor is still on the bench but I will report back in due course.

Edit: those 82 GPz750 twin shock are very good, strong motors and great handling, enjoy!

Tyrell Corp wrote: This is an interesting topic, ring break-in is critical and there are differing opinions.

I have an old Wiseco XC GPz615 piston kit and the rings are NLA - there was a thread on this subject a few years ago and the same used pistons were later gifted to me by a member here (thanks Corey)

Ring gaps are all within spec, I asked total seal about it - presumably these guys know piston rings, and their recommendation was, in the absence of a new ring set they can't supply, to use their dry break-in lubricant powder and a non synthetic oil initially. This motor is still on the bench but I will report back in due course.

Edit: those 82 GPz750 twin shock are very good, strong motors and great handling, enjoy!

Any idea what's in this "dry break-in lubricant powder". What's the premise for it's use? Is there grit in it to assist the rings in seating?

Good question.
Steve

A graphite or Teflon lubricant, maybe? I would be fairly terrified to put any sort of grit in an engine. As soon as it starts, that stuff would be everywhere the oil goes. Cams. Bearings. Oil pump. :blink:

It is a tiny tub with about 1 gram in, you rub it on the bores and they have a greenish tint - I suspect some sort of Teflon?

I did some googling on it and there are some good reviews. I think the idea being to lubricate without an oil film, for the critical first few minutes of running.