'82 GPz750 Exhaust replacement options?

Mounting done! I hope.

It's very solid so I'm thinking I won't have to put a hanger at the collector. Found the clamp at Napa, super solid fit. O'Reilly's had the same clamp for nearly half the price but would have taken nearly a week to get in.

I can't decide if the hanger looks ghetto or not. It fits like a glove especially considering the haphazard method of measuring and fitting the thing, probably used up all my luck for the rest of the year.

Pics?
Steve

swest wrote: Pics?
Steve

it's there, didn't take on the first upload.

I guess I should be fairly pleased considering I'm barely over $100 for the whole setup.

I put it together and it sounds awesome, It isn't loud like i expected, actually not as loud as before. It sounds more like a performance quad than a beat up bike with leaky exhaust. I did get some popping on down shift and deceleration. I'll adjust the carbs tomorrow and if that doesn't help I'll re-jet and see how that goes.

Look at your plugs.
Steve

swest wrote: Look at your plugs.
Steve

I will.

I adjusted all the primary jets out a turn and re-balanced the carbs and it's running much better. Gets up a goes like they are giving out cash prizes at the destination.

No popping just a hint of a putt-putt when closing the throttle. More of a sport bike buzz tone than a leaky pipe grumble.

It would be nice if you could just angle the tailpipe up a bit, also increase ground clearance.

That rear clamp isn't up to it, if you drill the rivets out of the can you can work from inside and move the rear hanger mount further back a bit.

IMO a bit of popping on the overrun is no big deal, as you noticed you can tune the worst of it out on the pilot airscrews

I was thinking that too. They're just pop rivets. You could drill the heads, move the muffler to 90* and reattach the end with pop rivets and use a flat bracket.
Steve

Tyrell Corp wrote: It would be nice if you could just angle the tailpipe up a bit, also increase ground clearance.

That rear clamp isn't up to it, if you drill the rivets out of the can you can work from inside and move the rear hanger mount further back a bit.

IMO a bit of popping on the overrun is no big deal, as you noticed you can tune the worst of it out on the pilot airscrews

That clamp is robust as hell. 1/16" stainless strap tighter than a Scottish miser. I've kicked at the whole set up several times and it's not giving hardly a bit. I am going to keep an eye on it though.

As for angle and clearance, I thought about that. The thing is I have nylon saddle bags I use for my commute and I wouldn't want interference. One side is already slightly damaged from sagging onto the old pipes. Clearance seems OK, this isn't a track bike and I can't think of where I might have to worry about bottoming out. You'd be surprised how far you can lean a bike over before something drags. I'd bet I'll still drag my peg before that can.

That clamp is robust as hell. 1/16" stainless strap tighter than a Scottish miser

The force should be upwards and vertical for lifting it up, rather than horizontal. A bit like trying to push a car down the road by the side doors. A good TIG welder with some stainless pipe could tidy that collector area up a lot and lose the goofy heat shield.
Adding a few inches and ending before the rear axle and below the footpeg is what I'd do.

Ground clearance isn't just for cornering, going over a bump fast can bottom the forks and dent bottom of the headers - did it on my 750 only recently.

I have rearsets on mine so my big booted feet touch down first.

Tyrell I appreciate your concern and advise. But this is a $100, more than likely temporary, set up. Especially where the muffler is concerned.

I have a few ideas to support the clamp/collector area but I'm not worried about going any further time, parts or equipment wise. The hanger is very solid and I'm very confident it will hold up. If I'm wrong and I bottom out and rip things to pieces then I'll be extra mindful when I get a more expensive, permanent set up.