Backfiring 82 KZ1100. Won't start.

Do you mean switching green and black intbeen pickup and ic ignitor???

I did rewire the the bike, but I didn't touch the wires from pickup to ic ignitor.

right now, if the green and black wires are connected correctly (green right coil, black left coil).... Bike doesn't starts, only pops.

If I switch black and green, bike starts, runs smooth on idle, pops very hard and baxkfires just by lifting a bit the throttle, then engine dies.

Brand new intake rubbers, no leaks.

I did notice that it looks like it's popping (flames) true #2 and 3 carbs. But I might be mistaken.

About the mechanical advancer, I looked at it again and I seropiously don't understand how you can rotate it 180 degrees.

First, you got a pin, and second, the mark needs to be align with the mark on the plate. And yes I checked, at tdc, it's pointing at the correct wires, I don't understand how you can rotate 180 degrees and be align?

Have you checked the valve adjustments?
Steve

Yes I did, all in specs, between .05 and .15mm

The bike was popping a little on idle when I bought it last fall, po told me probably carbs. I got home and cleaned them, no difference. Then I dissemble the bike for painting and frame modifications. Adjusted valves while engine was off, 3 valves where too tight.

Also, did a compression test yesterday: #1: 155 # 2 150 #3 150 #4 155

Question is, should I sleep on until I receiver my larger jets?

Is it normal for the bike to run like this (run is a big word, it doesn't run, it starts, it pops, it dies) with only pods and muffler mods.

From what I understood with theses modifications, the bike night not run well without rejeting, but that ain't 'not' well, I call it scary (it pops like a machine gun).

No somethings wrong. Will it run on the choke?
Pics.
Steve

It will start with choke on, but will start carb popping immediately. if I close the choke and let go the throttle, popping stops, but it will only run for about 6 to 10 seconds, when I hear that it will die, if I give a little throttle, it will wake up a bit but starts popping again. These are repetitive pops, non stop. Loud ones, I see flames true my pod filters.

:huh: The advance unit center-bolted to the crank end has an outer sleeve which rotates slightly on a fixed center-shaft. It is held in-place by two spring-tensioned metal fingers, which engage the holes in the outside of the sleeve. You need to get both the fingers open at the same time (tricky) in order to remove the sleeve. The sleeve is the only part that would have orientation changed 180 degrees, and should be cleaned/lightly-lubricated on the inside, so it can freely rotate on the shaft.
If I recall correctly, the Kawasaki KZ1100 service manual has a good description how to properly service the mechanism.
Hope this helps...

Also, you will want to confirm the coil with the green wire, while in the running configuration, is on the coil firing 2 and 3.

This will not be the problem with rough running, but you need to get the bike back into it's original configuration to avoid confusion and conflicts with troubleshooting. This is especially true for trying to diagnose a misfire.

One other thing that can affect things are the magnets in the pickup unit. If they were removed and put back upside down, timing will be way off. Have you checked spark timing with a strobe?

thanks for your replies guys.

- no i dont have a strobe to check timing... even if I had one now, the bike can't run properly to check
- I'm 100% sure the advancer is fine and aligned properly, i actually tripped checked. My manual dosnt desccribe much the advancer...
it only says that its not meant to be dissemble, and talks about alignment only.
- I'm going to put the green wire back on the right coil and rotate the avancer 180 degree off just to see... but by doing that, the mark is not going to be aligned
- I bought a good running (what i was told) kz1000 for parts, it can't be put on the road. I'll could start swapping parts one at the time like the advancer, ic igniter and coils to see if that makes a difference.

last question... cause i'm at work right now... WOULD IT MAKE A DIFFERENCE IF I SWAP RED AND GREEN ON COIL???? I mean the red is on the + side and green on negative side, but would that make a difference???

Red and green can be swapped with no effect.

ok thanks...

can the starter switch and kill switch wire connections have an effect??? I did scratch my head connecting these, looking at the kz1000 diagram.

Also, my 2 red coil wires are not connected to the backbone wire like it was suggested in www.bikeexif.com/motorcycle-wiring

the 2 reds goes directly to the ic ignitor like in the kz1000 diagram, so I guess that the power is supplied via the kill/starter switch, connected to the starter solenoid.

the starter works, but I havent tried the kill switch yet