Speedo

Haven't got out yet. Windy and cold. I'll have to take it around to the shed to work on it out of the wind. Crazy desert weather.
Steve

So I'm curious Steve, what is the best way to open these? Dremel cut the ring? Do you then pry the old ring off and re-crimp it?

I use a long small screw driver to get underneath the ring. There are two cuts (locators) where you can get a bight under it. I pry with a twisting motion all around the ring being careful not damaging the top part where you can see it has been tampered with. I do it just enough, so I can pop it off by prying under the folded up part.I'll go out and take a couple pics of what I'm talking about.
Steve

Here's some pics. Cold, windy and gloomy today.












I don't have a garage so I turned my daughter's green house into a work area for bossie. Cramped but out of the wind and rain.


Steve

Put it on and took a three mile ride. Holds steady until 65, then swings around. I took my old one apart and the input shaft has slop in it. The housing is riveted to the back cover and it was loose. The O ring tightened it but it also held it out too. Thus the drop in speed. The screw I was talking about I had loosened then shifted the bracket down to keep the housing from moving. The two back screws are smaller than the holes in the cover. The new one was loose but not as bad. I tightened it as well. If it keeps bouncing, I'll try loosening the screws to adjust the movement inside. We'll see.
Steve

I tried to take a video of the gauge in action yesterday. The cam has developed a power problem. Vibration. $27, no surprise. I'll use it on battery to get a few shots of it working or not.
Like I said before. I was able to stop it from jumping around by putting a O ring in place of the gasket so It acted like a shim. It also lowered the reading by 10 MPH. Being it is controlled magnetically, not running in a spinning drum of oil, I may have discovered why it was jumping. Loose shaft housing I may have cured that on the new one with the bracket. There isn't a lot to it, so I should be able to figure it out.
The one thing I'm most happy with is the odometer works. If it stops jumping great, if it flutters a little, I'll still be happy with it. At least until I can afford a new set.
Steve


The break failure lens was flopping around so I tried to glue it without taking it apart again. That little voice said let it sit for a few hours, I didn't. Now I need a new face for it. FK it, I can buy a new one for $115.

I think I see what you mean about changing the depth as to how far the magnetic drive "gear" goes into the conical drive hub.
One of my speedos does not even have that, single screw, sliding
metal tab. The other does but both look like they are "glued" in with some kind of grey epoxy.






Also, just tested this, ... with the bike in neutral on the center stand, rear brake locked, RPM 3,500 to 4200.... my speed needle is jumping around from zero to 18mph!!!
I think this one is just shot! Dang it.

Did you put Shrader valves in the top nut of the fork tubes?

It should have that sliding bracket. I think it's for reinforcement more than anything else. The O ring behind the case did make a difference. Stopped it from jumping but made it read slower.
Yeah, I put those on 20 years ago. I have progressive rate springs now.
Steve

Took a long time uploading to You Tube. See if this works.
Steve

I just got mine back together this evening but it's been 45 degrees and raining all day here in Denver.

I guess I'd be OK if my speedo only wiggled plus minus 2-4mph at 60-70mph.....
If this last work-on does not solve my problem.... I'm saving up for a repro speedo.... it drives me crazy seeing anything from 58mph to +80mph on the speedo driving at 70mph following my son in his car!!!
I still think it also has something to do with how tight or loose the instrument is mounted to the bracket and whether those shouldered rubber washers are hard or soft and that crushed foam on the bracket is gone now... replaced with 3/16" thick foam weather striping from the hardware store,

Gauge looks nice Steve. Sorry its not the greatest. I think that is what made me give up and go digital.

The foam will work. I cut my own washers out of 3/8's fuel line. I'm not done with it yet. There are the two screws and one off to the side. I recentered the shaft housing and will use JB weld to secure it when I'm done. I think the grey paint daubs are to keep the screws from moving like the yellow on the carb adjusters, plus it's tamper evident.
I have to remove my wind shield to keep fussing with it. Other things to do now, I'll get to it later. I might try a thinner O ring to stop the jumping.
Steve