How to hook up an oil cooler

I'm pretty sure I just get the fittings and modifyied blocks and run them with lines from the motor to the oil cooler right? Can someone just clarify for me. Thanks

And sorry it's for a 76kz900a4

You can buy the pair of oil cooler take offs that replace the pressure switch or make your own using a modified pressure switch.
Most off the shelf items allow you to keep the oil pressure light whereas modifying the original switch means loosing the light and fitting a pressure gauge into the galley plug near the ign housing if you wish.
The after market fittings are available from most performance suppliers.
I would try Jeff at Z1 enterprises , Joe Hooper at Pitstop and APE for starters but there are plenty of other suppliers out there, PMC etc .
If you want to modify your pressure switch then there are pic's of this in my Z900 café racer project thread .
It is simple enough to do using NPT or BSP barb fittings and an 1/2 inch bore hose which runs up to the cooler and back.

I had one before the wreck. I was planning to install a check valve so the oil wouldn't drain back into the crank case. Each time I would start it the oil light would stay on for too long, then go out. Also on hard acceleration the oil light would come on for a few seconds. Wanted to install a oil dam in the pan also. This time around I don't have one, I reworked my oil pump and haven't had those problems. It took an extra quart of oil and when checking the level, it was over full. That was back in the 80's. Has this problem been solved?
Steve

It's best to fit the cooler with the fittings at the top .
That way the cooler stays full, doesn't syphon back to the sump and the oil light should go off in normal time.
Just remember to drain the cooler also when it's time for an oil change.

So I'm slightly confused... If I buy these... I put them in and then I connect hoses from them to an oil cooler correct ? Do I fill the oil cooler with oil when I do this and is there anything I need to be aware of other r then putting in the blocks and lines and oil cooler?

That makes sense. With the fitting pointing up the oil is trapped in the cooler.
Steve

123vucku wrote: So I'm slightly confused... If I buy these... I put them in and then I connect hoses from them to an oil cooler correct ? Do I fill the oil cooler with oil when I do this and is there anything I need to be aware of other r then putting in the blocks and lines and oil cooler?

Yes! Those are what you need.
The one on the left takes the pressure switch.
Just bolt them on, run your lines up to the cooler and that should be it.
No need to prime the cooler, just start the engine, let it idle a few minutes to circulate the oil and then stop the engine.
Top up the oil to the correct level once it's been stood long enough to return to the sump ( overnight ).
If you have mounted the cooler with the fittings at the top it will take a little more than the std amount (depending on cooler size) .

OK thank you and what do u mean by having the oil cooler fittings mounted at the top ? Also what's a good cooler to use ? I've heard gpz ones are an option. I was thinking a slightly bigger cooler from a transmission of a car here's am example.. since the cooler is for a buggy/ go kart application that I have the motor on.

The oil cooler can go either way up.
Fittings on top or underneath.
If it's mounted with them on top (as it is shown in your attached pic) then it will hold a little extra oil in addition to what is in the sump.
The type in your pic is ideal for your needs and Is all I use on my projects.
I use either 10 to 13 row, half or full width coolers for the bikes depending on the state of engine tune and how hard I will work it.
A full race engine would need a bigger cooler etc and if you have the motor in a buggy I would go for the full width as in your pic.
If you look at my Drouin supercharged Z1000 and Z900 café project threads you will see these coolers being used .
The generic ones off ebay are virtually identical to the sereck and earls coolers etc but at fraction of the price and have given me no trouble.

Thanks alot helped a lot man

I am using this one by B&M, because it doesn't have delicate fins to get bent and it is nice to look at. Does cost a bit more. You can see mine mounted in my project thread in my signature.

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