Cylinder head bolt rubbery coating

gcphoto wrote: These are the bolts right at the top of the cylinder head cover under the gas tank.

Is that where you found the plastic crap? Must have had a leak or stripped a thread?
Ed's right and I say it too. Some people just shouldn't have tools.
Steve :whistle:

Put a little anti seize on those stainless bolts before threading them into aluminum.Start in the center and work out to each end when tightening them with a 1/4drive or short 3/8 ratchet,no need to torque them just snug em up really good.

Oh ok.. I gotcha. Head cover vs cylinder head. Yeah I have no idea what the rubbery gunk is. It's clear and like silicone. I noticed it on two others as little nasty bits coming out with the bolt, but when I took the third out it came out as a sleeve. Now I'm wondering if I need to take the whole head cover off because there could be lots of crap floating around in there? Ed, you're correct those bolt heads are flanged, but I'm replacing the old nasty corroded ones with new SS allen head fasteners. So they WILL need washers?

Side note.. I'm replacing the bolts partly for looks, but also because I've had issues with other bolts starting to break as I removed them because they were seized. And I just wanted to put all new bolts in so should I need to do repairs they will all come out as they should.

There's no good reason for bolts to break. If they are seized due to corrosion all you need to do is apply Kroil to them and let it penetrate. It helps to re-apply it once a day for 2 or 3 days. After that, the fasteners should come out without a struggle. No kidding! See www.kanolabs.com/penLub.html for ordering it. It also is available at some gun shops and gun shows. At the bottom of this posting is the picture of the product I use. It works!

Also, be sure to use JIS screwdriver bits on those fasteners that look like Phillips screws. Do not even try to use Phillips screwdrivers on the Kawasaki cross head screws.[/b] Despite their appearance they are not Phillips screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screws. The tips of Phillips screwdrivers are too long & pointed to allow the 4 blades of the screwdriver to properly engage the screws, so when you apply force the screw head slots will deform and look like crap. The fact is that Phillips screws were deliberately designed to have the screwdriver bit "cam out." This was done to prevent production line assembly from over-tightening, stripping, or breaking the screws. JIS screws do not have this problem. A proper fitting JIS bit can tighten a JIS screw to and beyond the torque spec without camming out. Here's the good news - you can easily modify standard Phillips screwdriver tips to fit the JIS screws.

I have ground down the tips of DeWalt #2 and DeWalt #3 Phillips to make them fit JIS screws. The large crosshead screws on the cases take modified #3 bits (or genuine #3 JIS bits). To modify the DeWalt bits you need to grind the very tip a little, then test fit, then grind a little more and test fit, etc. until the bit no longer "rocks" back and forth in the screwhead. Picture 1 below shows how a DeWalt #3 bit fits the case screws of my KZ650 after being ground properly. The #2 DeWalt bits can be modified the same way to fit smaller JIS screws. Pictures 2 and 3 below shows DeWalt #2 and #3 modified bits.

I did find a place that sells authentic JIS bits. They don't list the #3 bit, but if you contact them they can provide the #3 JIS bits even though they are not listed on the website. These folks were very easy to work with, and the authentic bits do work great. Here's their site:

www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=89

Pictures 4 & 5 below show a comparison between my home made modified bits with the authentic JIS bits.

PICTURE 1

PICTURE 2

PICTURE 3

PICTURE 4

PICTURE 5

Ok thanks. I read your JIS bit post elsewhere. My response was "ohhhhhh that's why I can never get a good grip!". I got the appropriate tools and they make a huge difference. I got two Vessel JIS screwdrivers and an impact driver which makes a HUGE difference for the stuck ones. I'll get some of that oil as well.

You suggest I leave the flanged bolts in place instead of switching to new ones? I just wish I could polish up those bolt heads because they're so nasty looking. I'm doing a lot of other cosmetic work to the bike and just wanted to spruce up the details to match.

I guess it depends on how bad the original bolts are. If they're in rough shape they may be beyond saving. They are plated steel, so once the plating is shot polishing them will only help temporarily unless you have them re-plated ($$$). Replacing them with new old stock ones is a possibility, but it probably would be an expensive thing to do because there are so many of them. There are quite a few companies online that sell all sorts of bolts, including stainless, and it may be worth checking them out to see if they have flanged stainless bolts with the correct length and thread. Ed

For the Phillips cap screws you need a hand impact driver to remove them without taking the threads out with them. That "sleeve" you're talking about are the threads. The impact will push down and turn the screw at the same time. The shock helps loosen the threads that are seized with chemical reaction and age. Every tool box should have one. Ed is right about the heads but if the screws are seized no regular screw driver will remove them. Sometimes just tapping on a bit will jar them free but a impact driver makes it easy.
Steve

I just got redirected to another ad. This time View New Messages. I don't want to make ask my default or make any changes to my computer. I've declined but it still happens,

There's actually a really good hardware store near my house that has lots of high quality SS bolts. I will check over there. I'm pretty sure I saw metric flanged bolts last time I was there. Thanks Ed!!

Steve, I've got a hand impact driver and you're right. It's a life saver!

No matter which bolt you use, you will need the copper washers. The soft copper forms the seal that prevents oil seepage under the bolt head. Are the heads of the new bolts about the same diameter as the flange on the old ones?

The SS kits are meant to be used without washers. They do suggest though, if they're too long grinding or adding washers need to be done. Some aren't exact fit. Generic sizes. I suggest laying them out along the old ones and size them up before installing. Can't strip threads that way.
Steve

Not only do the Allen's look better, they won't seize as easy.

swest wrote:
I just got redirected to another ad. This time View New Messages. I don't want to make ask my default or make any changes to my computer. I've declined but it still happens,

I have had that happen in the past - it is probably a bug in your computer. Have your anti-virus program check it out.