Installing Cam Chain Tensioner

Here is a pic of the alignment

Thanks Jim. I am going to keep looking for a manual but all I am finding is the supplement, and they are very limited info in the supplement . One I seen had a table of contents picture and didnt look like it covered a whole lot.

Here is a pic of the cam chain timing. Before you pull any cams out I recommend you put the tensioner back in and slowly turn the engine via the big nut under the points cover and look to see if the above alignments are correct. Cam cover needs to be removed. Take the spark plugs out and if while you are turning the engine if you feel it stop on something then don't continue you may have slipped a tooth. You might be lucky and may not have slipped a tooth.

You are correct, Martin. The supplement documents the differences between that particular model and the base model. You need the base model and all subsequent supplements leading up to the model you are working on.

Been looking for the Manual I need only one I found is in New Zeland going to keep looking for one here stateside

Bandit406 wrote: Been looking for the Manual I need only one I found is in New Zeland going to keep looking for one here stateside

That is where I got my service manual. Cheapest one I could find. Its just a reproduction, great manual.

That's where I got mine, don't know why my e-bay link didn't go thru ,but the only downfall is, the shipping fees, & 4-6 weeks delivery time ...but I love the fact that it's wire bound, & wont close up on the page you're on..Pete

and the laminated front & rear covers, that you can wipe off if you lay it down on an oily/greasy surface !!!

That's also the manual I use. But anyway, I would do as JimB says. I would verify timing before tearing out the cams. remove the spark plugs. Just like stated go slow and if you feel any bind stop. But I would just try to go to tdc and stop. from the right side of the motor, the exhaust (front) cam mark should be level with the front valve cover gasket surface on the head. If that's correct, starting at the head surface Skip one pin on the cam chain link. I.E. don't count the pin that the mark is on. Then count 28 pins. that's where the timing mark on the intake (rear) sprocket should end up. If that's where it ends up then its in time. If any of the marks are off its out of time. You can also look at the cam lobes on the number 4 cylinder. With it at tdc the cam lobes will be facing towards each other and will be perfectly level with each other. If the lobes face away from each other, ur at bottom dead center. But you can still look and see if the lobes look exactly the same position. Hope that helps.

I just put my motor back together today. So I just went out and snaped a few shots to help you verify timing. This can be done with out a manual.


Here is the exhaust cam timing marks. See how it is flush with the top of the gasket surface. I know your marks will look different, Mine is a dot since there aftermarket sprockets. I put a blue dot on the pin on the cam chain to help show where the dot is.


Here is where the intake timing mark lines up.


See how the lobes are level with each other, and facing each other,


Here is the timing advancer marks lined up with tdc for 1&4



Heres a close up of it. Hope this helps.

Bandit, powerstroke's upper cam roller has been removed, obviously, but don't remove yours.
I don't think you would have, but just in case.