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Clutch cable snapped from handle
- david-b
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Anywho, I'm ordering a new one. My question is, I'm assuming this usually doesn't happen correct? I'm guessing that this cable was probably the original and never been replaced. With a new cable, this shouldnt be a problem again, correct? Also (haven't looked in manual yet so don't hate, does this cable get oiled like the throttle cable?
Thanks
/D
/Dave
2013 Chevy Sonic LT 1.4L Turbo
1982 Kawasaki KZ750-H3 LTD
1975 Monte Carlo 400sbc
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Nebr_Rex
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them. And yes they need oil. Look at any period manual for a reference.
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- david-b
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/Dave
2013 Chevy Sonic LT 1.4L Turbo
1982 Kawasaki KZ750-H3 LTD
1975 Monte Carlo 400sbc
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- 650ed
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david-b wrote: Will do thanks. Ordering one from Z1 right now. Clutch was always hard to pull in. Really had to use 3+ fingers to do so. Seen some of your guys bikes where you can do with 1 finger.
I recommend after receiving the new cable you clean and lube the clutch release mechanism (under the sprocket cover), lube the new cable, and make sure the clutch mechanism is operating smoothly. It shouldn't take 3 fingers to pull it in. Ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- david-b
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/Dave
2013 Chevy Sonic LT 1.4L Turbo
1982 Kawasaki KZ750-H3 LTD
1975 Monte Carlo 400sbc
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- Motor Head
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- FIX UP YOUR BIKE RIGHT AND CHEAP
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1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
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- RonKZ650
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321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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- Patton
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Some riders habitually don't use the clutch except when the bike isn't rolling.
Many are adept at getting rolling and into low gear from a dead stop without using the clutch. And at getting into neutral without using the clutch before coming to a full stop.
Enjoyed once passing a motorcycle vehicle inspection without a clutch cable where the cable broke en-route to the inspection station.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- koolaid_kid
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As noted, the strands will start to break, one by one, always at the barrel. If you properly maintain your cable by periodic lubing you will notice them starting to go.
I had an excuse; I had just purchased the bike and we went for a trip through the twisties.
Since then, I always carry a spare throttle and clutch cable with me when I go on trips. Plus I maintain them religiously.
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- martin_csr
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To lube the inner cable I use a funnel w short sections of clear tubing shoved together & fitted over the clutch release end w some duct tape to make sure it stays in place, all hung from the eaves w a coat hanger, then spray the cable lube ... kinda rednecky but it works.
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- Jeff.Saunders
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The cable barrel end should pivot in the lever. If it's too tight, it will cause a premature failure right at the upper end nipple. Clean the area in the lever and if necessary smooth any imperfections in the barrel on the end of the cable. A silicone lubricant is good as it won't attract dirt.
Check the cable adjuster. Many of these have rough edges. A small file can help relieve any of these.
Make sure the cable is routed correctly. If the handlebars have been changed it's possible you may need to reroute the cable so it isn't too tight a turn at the handlebar end.
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