Need help please

Okay not trying to post so much but Im not an expert on my bike just yet. I switched out the spark plugs and the power is back . Now i cant help but wonder why my bike is eatting plugs so fast???

Very happy to hear it's fixed.

2 questions:
What brand of plugs ?
And
Are you using some kind of anti-seize on them?

My bike HATES NGK plugs.
Many if not most of the bike I have worked on ran MUCH better with ND hot U's.
With no other change at all.

I have been trying to figure out why for 35 years.

MDawnz1 wrote: Very happy to hear it's fixed.

2 questions:
What brand of plugs ?
And
Are you using some kind of anti-seize on them?

My bike HATES NGK plugs.
Many if not most of the bike I have worked on ran MUCH better with ND hot U's.
With no other change at all.

I have been trying to figure out why for 35 years.

Same with my bike. Ed

I run Ngk plugs from autozone. I have tried B6Es as well as the 7,8, and B9ES. So far it hates everything except the B9ES . It has more power and better running with the B9ES . It only last me about 3 or 4 short rides though until the bike starts eatting it . Do i have to order those ND U's or can i find them at a local store like napa ? Thanks -Tyler

What are plug readings after 100 miles on new plugs?
Might be oil fouled, or fuel fouled, or other visible indication as to reason for plug failure.

Going more than one range hotter than FSM recommended spec is ill-advised.

Good Fortune!

Of the B6ES; B7ES; B8ES; and B9ES plugs that you have tried the B9ES is the coldest plug. So, when you say the engine eats the plug, what exactly do you mean? If the problem is that the plug fouls it seems odd that the B9ES (the coldest plug) would work the best; normally, the opposite is true. Is it possible that your bike is running too hot because of a lean fuel/air mixture and that the hotter plugs compound that problem? Ed

It is hard to explain. If the B9ES is the coldest then that surprises me. All I know is that out of those plugs It just seems like my bike idles better and runs better on B9ES. It tends to last longer too, and as for miles I do not know. I do not ride it for long periods of time. Maybe five or ten minutes up the road. Until I get the bike LEGAL to ride on the road I can not go far. Once I get it inspected and get my license stuff worked out I will take it much further.

To answer your question ed, when the bike eats the plug it doesnt work . Fouled, or whatever else a plug does. I know when the plugs are dead because the bike will refuse to accelerate and die whenever I crack the throttle. Once I put new plugs in it the bike comes to life again .

Schmeck wrote: To answer your question ed, when the bike eats the plug it doesnt work . Fouled, or whatever else a plug does. I know when the plugs are dead because the bike will refuse to accelerate and die whenever I crack the throttle. Once I put new plugs in it the bike comes to life again .

If you can post close-up pictures of one of the plugs that is bad it might help. If the plug is black and oily it is oil fouled; if wet and smells like gasoline it's fuel fouled; if it is dry but has tiny gray specks on the the insulator and electrodes or if the insulator is abnormally bright white it may be running too hot. Some guys (not me) on this site can read a plug like a book, so if they see pictures they may be able to provide more insight. Ed

Perhaps weak insufficient sparks are an issue.
With an uninstalled new plug connected to the cap and its base held grounded against the engine head, what is the visible spark quality when the engine is cranked over with the ignition switched on?
Supposed to be fat blue sparks -- not weak orange sparks.
Poor spark may promote early plug failure by failing to keep the combustion residue burned off.

Has ignition timing been verified with a strobe type timing light to assure the F mark aligns with the case mark at idle rpm? Not the T mark; not the letter T; not the letter F.
Incorrect timing usually results in reduced power.

Has proper timing advancer function been verified with a strobe type timing light by watching the advancer move quickly back and forth as rpm is varied by blipping the throttle?
The advancer may require lube, or both cleaning and lube.
A hanging advancer usually results in performance issues, including reduced power, over-heating, etc.

If not already done, would perform compression tests, both wet and dry; and also assure valve clearances are within specs.

Too tight valves may allow decent performance by a cold engine, until the engine warms and begins losing compression as the valves begin leaking.

Good Fortune!

Thanks for the responses, The plugs are usually pitch black and dry. I usually clean them off and try them again and they would end up the same way. I think its just the plug but I will post pictures tomorrow of what the old plugs look like and what my new plugs look like since I have 2 rides in so far on them. Only 5 minute rides around back roads but still counts since Im a crack the throttle kind of rider. Ill also will see about getting those other plugs instead of ngk. -Tyler

Your bike is NOT getting up to operating temperature.
Sure maybe you can turn the choke off,
but big deal,,,,,
The plugs have to get HOT to self clean them selves.
That is like a half step down from turning it into a diesel (pinging & knocking)

I know for a fact it takes a 900/1000 30 minutes of riding time to get to temp.

If the book calls for B8ES plugs,,,,,use them and tune the bike to them if you have to,,,,,
If you want to try ND's it.s W24ES-U