More bad news.

Here is a closeup of the valve.

If it's me I'm pulling the cylinder, clean the pistons, measure the bore, maybe new rings, do the valves. If you have a valve spring remover, you're good to go, you can 100% with certainty check the valve seat and the valve.

If you're not $$ able to do it, you can at least clean stuff up and beg a bike mechanic to check your valves and seats as a side job, so he won't have to charge you the shop rate (people wonder why the shop labor rate is high, it's because of the 'overhead' of running the business, and with a guy doing the wrenching work on the side, he has no such 'overhead' like making payroll, rent, insurance, yada yada and can charge a lot less.)


Whatever you do, verify with 100% certainty before reassembling that you found the source of the leak.

If you fool yourself into thinking the very first thing you find is the cause -- and you're wrong -- you have to be very thorough when troubleshooting -- if you reassemble and still have the issue, this might happen

newOld_kz1000 wrote:

Whatever you do, verify with 100% certainty before reassembling that you found the source of the leak.

If you fool yourself into thinking the very first thing you find is the cause -- and you're wrong -- you have to be very thorough when troubleshooting -- if you reassemble and still have the issue, this might happen

Monty Python "twit of the year" Now THAT was some funny shit!

badrhino wrote: Here is a closeup of the valve.

is that head warped?

Looks like a timesert in the sparkplug hole. Also looks like a chunk of carbon is holding that valve open. The margin looks aweful small on them, they may have been worked in the past and are at their limit now.

Get those valves out and clean the seats and bead blast the valves.