What kind of power should I expect to make

sflaz1 wrote:

Rowdymk2 wrote: I am either gonna use a j model head or the 900 head ported not really sure what size valves to get or or what cam would even be the best I have my eye on the Andrews 2x but I am not afraid to modify the the head and go bigger . I want this build to make a radical street machine that will cruise around town and have enough power to run some of the newer bikes out . This bike is not my main transportation . 125 is at the wheel I hope . I was kind of shooting for around 150 . I stretched a swingarm 6 over witch will be going on tomorrow if time is on my side before I go to work. This is the first time I have ever built a bike engine other than oem rebuild so any pointers would great . And please leave out the buy a zx10 and 13.5:1 is not gonna be good on the street commentary . Because I know that with the right cam and carb combo it will be fine . This is not a touring rig thanks in advance

If you use a J model head you will have to use J model pistons or the compression will be considerably lower due to the larger tub size of the combustion chambers. APE told me that unless your running a big block there is not much to gain with the J model head.

Thats the whole point. Hes at 13.5 to 1. should be round 9 to 1 to be a well mannered street bike. when you use a j model head you can expect around two point compression drop if i remember correctly.

So then should I get an old 1015 head and build that or a 900 head . Today I put my 6 over swingarm on still need to extend brake arm and have a brake line made and I put on my new seat

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You asked some good questions but I don't see the answers that address the issues you can run into. This is how I would do it. It will make all the power you'll want for, be street friendly and reliable.

There's a world of difference between a 2x and 3x cam set. You'll have enough cubic inches to go with the 3x and not give up the bottom end.

If the pistons are name brand, call the company, get the specs to knock the domes down to 10.5 ratio. Use the head you have. Port it. I'll give you specs for that if you think you are up to the job.

You can get by with stock 36/30 valve sizes but you'll want to go through the head correctly.

Optimally you want at least a 37mm intake valve....38 would be better. The 30mm exhaust is fine...I'll tell you how to make the exhaust port work just fine with it..It's easy. The problem with that is if the cams are 1.110" base circle [which I'm betting they are if they're used] setting up the valves is tricky when going oversize. 3x has a truck load of overlap. Hence, the reason to go over only on the intake side...it's where the power is made anyway.

Given the choice, I'd use a KZ1000 over a 900 head.

Do this thing right and you'll have a really nice street ride. I would not run shim on top with the 3x cams and would not use OEM shim on bottom buckets with them either. You have but one safe choice there....True High Performance Buckets and that's another can of worms for setting up the valve job because they can be from .105" to .118" in thickness. Thicker means less room to work the valve job with 1.110 base circle cams....

If you go large intake valves, use J model or Suzuki GS1000. They are .050" shorter. Stay the hell away from 37.5 kz length valves unless you have say a 1.060" base circle cam....you'll play hell shortening up keepers and retainers trying to make those miserable things work with a heavy overlap cam...

In order to answer the question we first need to be given all the info,with only 1/4 of the parts listed that he wants to use and no idea of how its really going to be ridden theres no way to really give him a straight answer. :woohoo:

LarryC wrote: You asked some good questions but I don't see the answers that address the issues you can run into. This is how I would do it. It will make all the power you'll want for, be street friendly and reliable.

There's a world of difference between a 2x and 3x cam set. You'll have enough cubic inches to go with the 3x and not give up the bottom end.

If the pistons are name brand, call the company, get the specs to knock the domes down to 10.5 ratio. Use the head you have. Port it. I'll give you specs for that if you think you are up to the job.

You can get by with stock 36/30 valve sizes but you'll want to go through the head correctly.

Optimally you want at least a 37mm intake valve....38 would be better. The 30mm exhaust is fine...I'll tell you how to make the exhaust port work just fine with it..It's easy. The problem with that is if the cams are 1.110" base circle [which I'm betting they are if they're used] setting up the valves is tricky when going oversize. 3x has a truck load of overlap. Hence, the reason to go over only on the intake side...it's where the power is made anyway.

Given the choice, I'd use a KZ1000 over a 900 head.

Do this thing right and you'll have a really nice street ride. I would not run shim on top with the 3x cams and would not use OEM shim on bottom buckets with them either. You have but one safe choice there....True High Performance Buckets and that's another can of worms for setting up the valve job because they can be from .105" to .118" in thickness. Thicker means less room to work the valve job with 1.110 base circle cams....

If you go large intake valves, use J model or Suzuki GS1000. They are .050" shorter. Stay the hell away from 37.5 kz length valves unless you have say a 1.060" base circle cam....you'll play hell shortening up keepers and retainers trying to make those miserable things work with a heavy overlap cam...

Larry mentions shorting keepers and retainers.... I didnt know about shorting them. I was running stock j model head with the psp 3x cams. The bike would get where it would smoke like valve seals were going out. I just put new ones in the winter before. Got it apart and came to find out the retainers and or clips were barely hitting the seals. It ended up ruining the seals. I shortened them up this time around.

Powerstroke_fan wrote:

LarryC wrote: You asked some good questions but I don't see the answers that address the issues you can run into. This is how I would do it. It will make all the power you'll want for, be street friendly and reliable.

There's a world of difference between a 2x and 3x cam set. You'll have enough cubic inches to go with the 3x and not give up the bottom end.

If the pistons are name brand, call the company, get the specs to knock the domes down to 10.5 ratio. Use the head you have. Port it. I'll give you specs for that if you think you are up to the job.

You can get by with stock 36/30 valve sizes but you'll want to go through the head correctly.

Optimally you want at least a 37mm intake valve....38 would be better. The 30mm exhaust is fine...I'll tell you how to make the exhaust port work just fine with it..It's easy. The problem with that is if the cams are 1.110" base circle [which I'm betting they are if they're used] setting up the valves is tricky when going oversize. 3x has a truck load of overlap. Hence, the reason to go over only on the intake side...it's where the power is made anyway.

Given the choice, I'd use a KZ1000 over a 900 head.

Do this thing right and you'll have a really nice street ride. I would not run shim on top with the 3x cams and would not use OEM shim on bottom buckets with them either. You have but one safe choice there....True High Performance Buckets and that's another can of worms for setting up the valve job because they can be from .105" to .118" in thickness. Thicker means less room to work the valve job with 1.110 base circle cams....

If you go large intake valves, use J model or Suzuki GS1000. They are .050" shorter. Stay the hell away from 37.5 kz length valves unless you have say a 1.060" base circle cam....you'll play hell shortening up keepers and retainers trying to make those miserable things work with a heavy overlap cam...

Larry mentions shorting keepers and retainers.... I didnt know about shorting them. I was running stock j model head with the psp 3x cams. The bike would get where it would smoke like valve seals were going out. I just put new ones in the winter before. Got it apart and came to find out the retainers and or clips were barely hitting the seals. It ended up ruining the seals. I shortened them up this time around.

That's not the end of the keepers that get shortened sometimes when you're setting up a head for big valves with those cams...Ask Wireman..he'll tell all about it...I'm sure he's done hundreds of them... :woohoo:

In your situation, it was the other end and that's fine too...but shorter guides are generally used when you setup for over .410" lift..... at least I do it that way.

I know my limitations on the machining end of things,when Ive got things I cant do I leave it to those who can.
Ok Lar,Ive got some of the parts sitting in a corner for a 1385 motor I haven't finished yet.
Its a 900 bottem end put together with all the good stuff that's needed and not a bunch of stuff that makes others rich that's not needed.
Its got 10.5:1 wiseco pistons ,Its going to be a street turbo so Ill be using stock cams.
I don't know what head Im using yet either a ported kz head or ported j style head.
Garret t3/4 turbo with 42 flat slide carb.
And a nitrous bottle to help get it rolling.
So how much hp and torque is this thing going to make,what kind of times will it run in the 1/8 mile?
heres another one for ya.
Ive got an 1105 turbo motor Im building for another member here using a mkII bottem with a set of 10.25:1 wiseco pistons .
I just got an extra 81-82 gpz 1100 block from Dan here on kzr(yeah Im boring his other cylinder for hybrid wiseco 1170 pistons that look like 1140ish mtc's to me anyway) that Im using the sleeves out of to put in the stock kz1000 cylinder then Ill bore them to fit the existing 1105 pistons,that way I have plenty of meat to support things.
Anyway Im either using a ported mkII head with oversize exhaust valves or a ported j-style head with same thing done to it.
Again Ill be installing stock cams but this one is going to either use a garret t-25 turbo or another turbo, we haven't decided yet.
It will also have a flat slide carb and nitrous on it.
So how much hp/torque will this motor make at say 5lbs of boost,how about at 15lbs of boost?
Ive got a fairly good idea of the amount of power these motors should make,but me being a backwoods hill billy red neck shade tree working out of the barn type guy Im relying on your crystal ball and vast wealth of knowledge to set me straight here.

Well come on answer man.
Ok heres the head I might put on the 1105 motor,give me some hp ideas! :woohoo:

Id show you what I do to tune up the exhaust ports on a turbo head but Lar's already knows all that since hes done hundreds of turbo heads,he'll just have look at the outside and wonder about the inside.
Don't worry the outside aint done yet,lots of detailing and dual plugging to do still.
Id post a picture of the modified turbo intake fit with bungs for nitrous injectors when I finish building it but hes done 100s of those also :laugh:

Well here's the deal I got a jug from a j model is there gonna be an issue with the timing chain to my understanding they are a five plate style chain ? And the don't have the same tensioner set up I really like the sheen and j model square cut cool fins will this work ? Or should get a 900 or1015 jug if I can get it I will use mk2 case shaft drive style and convert to a chain drive lets hear it