Weird noises, hard start after overheating

After starting a cold engine and allowing it to run a few seconds, can spray water mist onto all the header pipes.

The spray is supposed to sizzle and instantly vaporize when there's combustion inside the cylinder.

If water droplets run down the pipe, there's failure of combustion in the cylinder.

Use the water spray -- don't touch the pipes with your hand or fingers. :pinch:

Good Fortune!

Hmm ok ill try it, but that doesnt explain the knocking, does it?

have you pulled the plugs to see how they look?

strobel5 wrote: Yeah I mean I did a pipe test the day it overheated and 1/4 were hotter than 2/3 but 2/3 did have heat . Also it seemed to be running well until it got really hot.

With regard to just checking on some basics after the rebuild, is it for sure that the F mark aligns with the case mark at idle rpm?



Good Fortune!

When first started after the rebuild and first began riding it around breaking it in, did everything seem normal, and without any unusual noises?

How long did the normalcy continue, and under what riding conditions?

Good Fortune!

It was running like normal,I took it on some quick 10 min runs, not going over 5k rpm. everything felt smooth and responsive, no weird noises besides a little cam chain noise. Then the day it broke down was the longest run probably 20 min, was running it a little harder. Had about 30 miles on it after rebuild. As far as checking spark plugs it was lean on 1/4 and rich on 2/3 which I thought might be the problem. I crudely timed it,seemed to run fine so didnt worry too much, dont have the tools to time it perfect, was going to take it to a shop to sync the carbs and check timing.

In hindsight I should of got the timing down perfect before riding too much, but it was really running great and I was ready to ride!

"Points" ignition?

Good Fortune!

I gapped the points to .035mm and tried my best to use my crappy multimeter to check the continuity if thats what you mean?

Setting timing "statically" aka "static method" (engine not running) should get pretty close.

First set the gap, and then adjust the timing to where the left-hand (9 o'clock) points just begin to open as the F mark for 1/4 aligns with the case mark.

The "dynamic" timing (engine running) is more accurate, using a timing light, and whereby the advancer function may also be viewed.



Would also assure there being fat blue sparks on every plug when the engine is spun over with the plugs removed and held grounded against the engine.

Good Fortune!

So I did the spray test and 2/3 the water is running down the pipe so is the timing off?

also if I do a coil check, I swap the coil leads and the spark wires correct?