No compression in #2 Cylinder

I have a 1983 KZ750 LTD which I've done a complete rebuild on. Replaced the head gasket, base gasket,new rings, and a valve adjustment replacing the shimms. The number 2 cylinder ring gap measured 0.026 in. the others were well under the limit. The Clymer manual states specs are 0.008-0.027 in. When checking for compression in each cylinder I am getting #1 85PSI, #2 0PSI, #3 80PSI, #4 85PSI. I have 0.10mm of clearance under all valve buckets, exhaust and intake. I re-honed with 120 grit ball type honer, cylinder walls were pitted a little. Any advice on what would be my next step. Im thinking I need a new cylinder head. This is my first post, sorry for the newbie question but I need help. Thanks..

Did you do anything to the valves while the motor was apart?
Sounds like low compression on all 4 to me,did you hold throttle wide open when you ran the compression test?
Id try dumping a little oil down the cylinders and check numbers again.

I used a egg carton taking each valve out with the springs and retainers making sure not to mix them up. I cleaned the head of the old gaskets. I am thinking its something to do with the rings or the cylinder. I was reading something about the rings having a grove side and it should be placed up. I don recall the grove.

Currently I am rebuilding the engine. I did not have the carbs installed when I tested the compression. I have filled the engine with oil, and I soaked the pistons with the installed rings in oil prior to placing the head on. I made sure the rings werent overlapping. The top ring I turned the opening forward, and the second rings opposite from the top ring. The oil ring I just made sure it wasn't lining up with any other ring. I haven't tried putting more oil in yet.

Did you have valves/seats ground before reassembly?
Leaking valves would cause same issue,if the compression goes up after dumping more oil down the cylinders and retesting id say rings,if it doesnt id look at a valve job

I did not have the valve seats grounded. I checked to see if the valves leaked by pouring carb cleaner into the intake and exhaust ports. Nothing leaked. I checked this before I took the valves out and checked it again after I put it back together. I did not follow the diagram below when lining up the rings (new rings) I forgot to put the oil rings at 30 degrees. Would this be causing the low compression? I assumed since they weren't leaking I didn't need to lap the valves.

Double check your valve timing.

I have taken pictures of the camshaft can someone take a look. I am getting low compression in all four pistons and zero compression in the # 2. Thanks.

This site includes a freely down-loadable service manual.
Should have specific directions and pictures.

Click the link and scroll down to "The Bible."

kz.bike-night.com/

Good Fortune!

Im suspecting a valve problem, possibly bent valve maybe more than one. If cam timing is off, usually comp is different on all cylinders. Always fluid check your valves through the ports before installing.

OldSchoolZ wrote: Im suspecting a valve problem, possibly bent valve maybe more than one. If cam timing is off, usually comp is different on all cylinders. Always fluid check your valves through the ports before installing.

Oldschooolz thanks i appreciate your comment. I'd like to entertain every possible scenario so to try to pinpoint where to start looking next. I just installed new valve boots, cleaned and checked the valves and they are not bent. I have provided photos of the timing marks and have followed the provided instructions by turning the crank to "T" TOP DEAD CENTER for 1-4. I have also checked by looking thru the #1 and 4 spark plug whole to make sure I see the piston at the top. I've lined up the marks. I am not getting good compression in every cylinder and in one I am getting no pressure at all. Rings are new and the cylinder has been honed. Hypothetically, If timing is correct, and valves aren't bent what do I look at next? I've heard so far check the timing, and or valves is there anything else which might cause this problem. I will be tearing the engine back down I just need some idea direction to go in next. Thanks..

A leakdown test injects air pressure through the spark plug hole to pressurize the combustion chamber.

Can perform a poor man's leak down test by introducing compressed air into a spark plug hole and listening to where it escapes from the combustion clamber. This may be done at TDC or any other cam positions where both valves are fully closed. Top dead center (TDC) is when the piston is at its highest position. An easy way to tell TDC is by alignment of the T mark with the case mark when viewed through the timing window.

May introduce a spurt of compressed air by using a rubber cone-tip blow gun (rubber air nozzle) held into the spark plug hole. And of course keep holding it in position to keep air from coming back out the spark plug hole while listening for escaping air at other places. The air compressor should not be running while listening because the noise will likely drown out any sound of escaping air.

Air heard escaping from exhaust port indicates exhaust valve not fully closing (perhaps too tight clearance or damaged valve or valve seat).

Air heard escaping from carb intake indicates intake valve not fully closing (perhaps too tight clearance or damaged valve or valve seat).

Air heard escaping from crankcase breather indicates loss of compression past rings into crankcase (perhaps worn piston rings or cylinders).

Air heard escaping from head gasket area indicates indicates loss of compression past head gasket (perhaps due to a blown head gasket).

A leaking valve may sometimes be resolved by adjusting the clearance to within specs.

A leaking head gasket may sometimes be resolved by torquing the head fasteners when the engine is stone cold (such as after sitting overnight).

Good Fortune!