Cam chain tensioner

Calico wrote: Right, changing to manual is the easiest way. In fact, there is a way to convert one from the original. I'm just not certain if I can take the slack out with a cross wedge. I'll take a picture asap and post soon. Than you to everyone!

thats what I was referring to,drill/tap a hole in the end and install bolt with stop nut

Calico wrote: Ok, here is a picture of what mine looks like but mine has not been removed yet. So does anyone know if this one can be adjusted? By appearance it seems so. But my Clymer book isn't of much help here.

Drill/tap a hole on the oppisite end the plunger comes out on and install bolt/stop nut

So this tensioner as IS cannot be adjusted at all, right?

Calico wrote: Ok, here is a picture of what mine looks like but mine has not been removed yet. So does anyone know if this one can be adjusted? By appearance it seems so. But my Clymer book isn't of much help here.

Let's apply some common sense to this :whistle:

To make that a manual tensioner, simply replace the short 6mm pre-load lock bolt with a longer 6mm bolt and a jam nut. That's all there is to it. When you want to adjust it, loosen the lock nut and bolt. The springs will put the correct tension on the rubbing shoe. Locking the bolt and nut prevent the plunger from backing off under load.

It's best to thread a nut or die onto the new bolt, then use grinder or file to make the end of the bolt blunt where it's going to grab the pushrod of the tensioner. You want to prevent burrs on the pushrod. Then just run the nut or dye off the end of the bolt to fix any damaged threads....

I don't mean to sound ungreatful. I appreciate the efforts that everyone has gone to. And thank you all. Since no one will directly answer my question, I'll assume that you all are trying in your own way to tell me that the one I have now, the way it is, cannot be adjusted at all. So I will look forward to customizing it to manual as soon as I can afford a tap and die set. Have a great day everyone

Yours appears to be a "cross-wedge" type of automatic cam chain tensioner. There is also a "ball-lock" type (I've never seen one of those). You can't really adjust yours, but you can reset it. Line up the timing marks first, then remove the cross-wedge cap, remove the spring there under the cap, pull out the cross-wedge, then put it back in & reinstall the spring & cap. Most folks would clean the parts & put some lube on the wedge. Alternatively & it's probably preferable, you could remove the complete tensioner, clean it up, then reinstall & reset it - reference a factory manual (search this site for mbsween KZ750L3).

The way the cross-wedge auto tensioner works is that the push-rod automatically moves forward to take up the slack in the cam chain. Once the push-rod moves forward, it does not return to the original position because of the cross-wedge. So, if you remove the valve cover, then turn the crankshaft, slack may be created that causes the tensioner to move forward. Then when you reinstall the valve cover, the cam chain may be too tight. There is a note in the manual that says the tensioner should be removed anytime the cam chain is slackened, such as when the valve cover is removed.

Thank you Martin. That was exactly what I needed to know. I guess the only other question I have is, if I install or modify to a manual, do I still need to line up the timing marks to make an adjustment or just on the fly?

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