An odd Rattle...

P21 wrote: on your clutch you have to adjust the screw on the side of push rod for some play (at trans cover)

this picture just only referance www.kz400.com/KZ440MaintainanceFrameset.html

here it is

P21 our minds are on the same track. I was actually just out there adjusting this. When I over tightened the clutch cable it pulled the cylinder out of place on its ball bearings. I've got it back into place and I'm adjusting the adjusting screw on the clutch cover now, trying to get that perfect spot it had before I "broke the cable."

"You should get into the habit of using a torque wrench when working on your bike"

I probably should. I need to make the investment in some good tools.

As P21 suggested, would assure that the clutch push rod is properly adjusted.

Routine clutch push rod adjustment.

Assure having some "slop" in the clutch cable, using adjustments at the handlebar lever perch and at mid-cable along left frame down tube near the exhaust header.

Removing the access plate should reveal the adjustment screw and locknut.

First, slightly loosen the locknut.

The hidden end of the screw interfaces with the pushrod.

The basic idea is to lightly seat the screw against the pushrod, then back the screw 1/4 turn away from the pushrod, to thereby provide a small gap between end of screw and pushrod.

Here's a possible snag ---
The screw is part of an actuator assembly.
On some designs (screw-type), the screw turns clockwise to seat before turning counter-clockwise to provide the gap.
On other designs (ball and ramp), the screw turns counter-clockwise to seat before turning clockwise to provide the gap.

Will now speculate that the bike at hand has the ball and ramp style, whereby the screw turns counter-clockwise to seat before turning clockwise to provide the gap. But I might be wrong. So if it doesn't work that way, adjust it the other way.

Remember to snug the locknut before finishing. Just snug is plenty tight enough.

Lastly, reduce "slop" in the cable to produce desired amount of free play in the lever at the perch.


With the clutch lever released (not being squeezed), the clutch is supposed to be fully engaged (plates pressed tightly together).
If the gap isn't there, the plates can't fully press together, which causes the clutch to "slip."

With the clutch lever squeezed, the clutch plates are supposed to be separated. When squeezed, the gap disappears and the push-rod is pressed inward to press the plates apart, overcoming the spring pressure, and thereby disengaging the clutch.

Too much gap wastes clutch lever movement as too much lever travel is expended to simply close the gap before starting pressure against the push-rod. Whereby the clutch may only partly disengage when the lever is fully squeezed, and produce the sensation of a "sticky" or "grabby" clutch.

Way too much gap may waste all the clutch lever movement, as all the lever travel is expended to simply close the gap, with no movement left to exert pressure against the push-rod.

No gap or too little gap may over-stress the actuator assembly when the clutch lever is squeezed and cause the actuator assembly to pop apart.

It's important to know exactly how to set the required gap.
The general rule is to lightly close the gap, then back off ¼~½ turn.
On some models the gap is closed by turning the adjustment screw clockwise. But on other models the gap is closed by turning the adjustment screw counter-clockwise.

Mistaking which direction to turn the adjustment screw could for example start with the gap wide open instead of lightly seated.

Here's a simplified illustration to help visualize what is supposed to happen as the mechanisms engage and disengage the clutch.



Good Fortune!

Thanks Patton you the man i knew you would show this better than me Thanks again Patton

Patton wrote: Routine clutch push rod adjustment.

No gap or too little gap may over-stress the actuator assembly when the clutch lever is squeezed and cause the actuator assembly to pop apart.

This is what happened. Just glad I don't need to wait for a new cable. I'd like to get one still since there is way to much cable for the new bars, but I can at least wait until Friday to order it. Thanks a bunch for y'alls help.

Turns out, that wasn't the problem. When the bike warmed up the rattle returned and power was lost. It struggles to get any Speed/RPM and when pushed quits all together. Though when not under load it seems to be ok. Attempting to restart after it quits (with electric starter) it feels like the battery is low, but the voltage is fine. When cold it starts alright. The plugs aren't loose. I'm going to check compression with it warm, and after it cools off I'll check compression again. Not sure where to look next. I'm sort of at a loss here.

Checked compression while it was still warm, left side 100lbs, right side 120lbs. So, valve adjustment in order? Also looks like carb might be out of balance, left plug was black, right was a very light tan.

There are two things you posted in your thread that may be connected to your problem.
First you say you replaced the Points, while doing the spark plugs etc.
Did you both, set the Gap Correctly/ Dwell, and then the Ignition timing both at Idle and at RPM for full advance? If you did nothing but replace the points, if the Gap is Larger, than the timing would be Increased to a greater degree Before Top Dead Center. This can cause the "Rattle", as it would be Detonation. Thats bad news for Motors, and also can cause the Low speed cranking feeling like the battery is low voltage. The spark goes off to early and tries to force the engine backwards. The starter sounds like it Drags, and won't turn the motor smoothly.
Got a Timing Light? A Feeler Gauge for the points?(Brass is best). Maybe a Dwell Meter?
Also check the Ignition mechanical advancer to make sure it hasn't gotten stuck, either by hand or the timing light if you have one.
A Valve adjustment/ Check is a good idea for sure.

I have been thinking that the timing might be off, but the issue only seems to come up after the bike warms. It almost feels like its trying to seize. I will check timing (no strobe unfortunately) and the gap seemed to be ok. I will check it again though in case it slipped out of place.

Do you have a way to post a video with sound? Maybe if you do that, better help may be had.

Yeah, though I don't know if you'd be able to notice it over the exhaust. I have a video, but the rattle isn't noticeable because the bike was cold when started. I'll have to record a new one. I guess it isn't too late yet!