[SOLVED]Engine break-in....stalling...overheating?

What carbs are you running? Would this work for you? (see link)

cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-KAWASAKI-FLO...fPartsQ5fAccessories

Mikuni BS34 carbs this won't fit.. nice find btw !

the two other 'barb" are vent lines not overflows

Thanks good to know!

regards,
laurent

IIRC, bubble either comes from bad drain screws (sucking air) or when filling the test tube air stays in the U in the middle... can i tap the tube or it might upset the carb float needles??

How many turns you screw them out [the drain screws]? After a few it start to drip fuel from the threads...

Do anybody know where to purchase them beside the dealer (charge me 10$ each :blink: :pinch: and this is just the screw.. no o-ring on it!!!)?


My package should arrive today ! :woohoo:

regards,
laurent

Yes, bubbles do tend to be a problem when doing fuel level tests. If air is sucking in through a screw seal, then it needs to be fixed. But also to prevent air bubbles sticking in the tube, you want to go to at least 1/4" ID clear hose as close to the connection point as possible. I just jam the small tube into a bigger tube. It seals ok for the test.

If you use a skinny tube, you will have to play all sorts of games to make sure the air is out. Also, make sure to use a clear tube so you can see what's going on.

If the vent ports are above the floor of the carb bore, then they are only vents. The carbs will overflow into the bore before any gas comes out of the vents. If the vents are below the bore floor, then they will act as overflows.

I get some oddball orings here:

www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/gl_carb_parts.htm

When I wanted to check my fuel level I just used an old carb drain screw and some Home Depot pieces to make a tool. I had no problems with bubbles or leaks or anything else. You just screw it snug into the drain hole and turn on the petcock. I've seen similar items on eBay since making mine.

Wow nice adapter there 650ed!

My package has just arrived!

Tomorrow i will take the carb off and check fuel level...

Is there anything else i should check for, while the bike is partially disassembled?

I will install new coils and spark plug wires too!

I want to be sure carbs are clean as new (they were cleaned 6 months ago)...should i soak them in a carb cleaning solution overnight? Usually i just blow air in passages and clean with thinner bowl and jets.

Btw, Thanks for the info Loudhvx, i will get a bigger tube diameter

regards,
laurent

OMG!

Goof of the year Award 2011 comes to:

Me

For: Putting the wrong head gasket in the engine... installed the 750 one (came in the Vesrah complete gasket kit) instead of the wiseco 810cc one!

/me wants to pull the trigger and kill myself

One step forward 5 step backward %%^&*^#@

I must fix that before fixing the carbs issue!

Last time it was missing (2) knock pins so i pulled the head again.. P.O. lost them and i didn't check the exploded view to see if something was missing...every goof i made the engine was working correctly its just wrong for me to leave this like that.

Keep you informed once carbs are done!

regards,
laurent

about the oil cooler fittings.
i am not formiliar with your bike, but an image came to mind. u said it had a flange with 2 bolts. could u cut a 1/2" thick alumin plate to bolt over the hole and drill and tap the plate for a hose barb ?

about the oil cooler fittings.
i am not formiliar with your bike, but an image came to mind. u said it had a flange with 2 bolts. could u cut a 1/2" thick alumin plate to bolt over the hole and drill and tap the plate for a hose barb ?

Wow great idea...never thought of that! Easy to do !

thanks!

[...]

Ok after re-installing the head...check all 4 carbs for fuel level they were all at within specifications (3mm +/- 1mm)

Looking good for that!

Next is main jet size increase, currently have #110 and bought #120 and up oops!...


regards,
laurent

why not take it for a spin before u start changing more things. your problem is not with the main jets right now.
will you do us a big favour.
get the bike running, spray wd40 around the intake boots and listen for a change in rpm. then do it again when it is hot. if the rpm changes u have an air leak and a resolution to the bigest part of the problem.

Right on Mark, I mentioned I had the same issue, I did wait till the engine was good and warm( I use carb cleaner instead of wd40 cause I don't care for the mess), mine didn't rev but it dropped a couple hundred rpm when I hit the 2 center carbs where the carb enters the manifold,and the effect is the same , theres a leak, so I will be ordering a new set of manifolds Monday. In the mean time, I can install a new rear tire, as the old one is about worn out and went flat last night.