motor assembly

I'm gonna start putting my engine back together this weekend and was wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks that will make it easier for me. I have the clymer manual for it but I'm sure you guys can tell me more than the book can.Do you guys prefer assembly lube, motor oil or what? The APE cams say use only kendall oil is that for assembly or for running in the motor? Gimme the tips motor guys.

how far down did you go with it?

split the cases

well thats where to begin with scrubbing the hell out of everything and putting it together,nothing really special about assembling bottem end just keep things clean and use a botteming tap in all the case bolt holes.
put some assembly lube on bolt threads.

I've scrubbed everything 3 times and then did it again to make sure it was clean. I put the main studs in and red loc tite'd them and torqued to 8ft-lbs. I know the 4 outer main studs should have a dab of silicone under the nuts to help seal them. Do you guys lube all threads when you torque them or install them dry? What do you like to set ring end gaps at? I have wiseco rings by the way and it's a 1075. What are you torqueing APE clyinder studs too? How about APE head nuts? I know what they reccomend, but I want you guys input. Is .005 about right for valve clearance on .410 cams? Do you prefer assembly lube or motor oil? Is there anything that I need to watch out for? I know just enough to know I should ask for advice.

i lube all threads myself,check apes site for torque on studs/nuts.
who bored/honed your cylinder?id check with them for clearances so theres no problem as far as liability issues if something is wrong.
id say get bottem end together and check back in,not sure about anybody else but i type with 1 finger. :laugh:

They had the pistons when they honed it and all cylinders came in .0022-.0025"

what did they say about ring end gaps?

I didn't have the rings when I had it honed they were on order at the bike shop. Should I just run the stock end gap?

"Do you prefer assembly lube or motor oil?"...

By all means, use engine Pre-Lube under CAM caps, over the buckets/shims etc... Otherwise Larry & Plumi will put a size 10 to yer ass....

Don't ask how I know this.... :blush: :laugh:

Use Wiesco's specs on end gaps.


If there's not one, I'd advise putting a generous chamfer on the bottom of the sleeves. It helps a bunch. You can do that with a 60 grit sanding roll.


Hot water, Dawn dish detergent, 4" round brush for the block Andy. Rinse it with water. Wipe down with the oil you're going to use in the motor. Wipe with clean towel until the rag stops turning brown.

Assemble with very light coat of oil on the piston skirt and rings. Same in the bores.

After it's on, turn the motor over a few times. Take a Bounty paper towel and wipe every bit of oil you can...out of the bores.

Watch you DON'T OVER LAP THE OIL RINGS.

I pre paint the ends with a paint stick so I can see the ends. I have a green one and a yellow one. They used to come painted but not anymore...

40 lbs on the head. Lube the nut threads & bottom surfaces. Sand all the washers.

I never put silicone on those copper washers. If they're good, you don' need it. If they're all grooved up, you need new coppers.

Retorque head after the motor is stone cold from the first heat cycle.

LUBE, LUBE, LUBE, LUBE the cam lobes and buckets. Get yourself a bottle of Torco

uhm,
what larry said :laugh: !





can't go wrong with that info.

leon