Exhaust valve color analysis?

Motor Head wrote:

Edit: I think you said 600 since rebuild. I would be doing a valve adjust and a oil change, re-torque the head, and exhaust bolts, ect. This would be a good time to put a new stem seal in, and if the piston is up, you can take away the air supply and then Wiggle the valve stem in the guide just to be sure it doesn't feel excessive.

Or... might be the right time for that big block and back cut tranny you always needed :woohoo:

how do you compress the spring on a kz head with it still on motor?

PLUMMEN wrote:

how do you compress the spring on a kz head with it still on motor?

First you remove the tank and any other easily damaged parts.
Remove cam cover and cams.
Remove shim and bucket.
Attach a left-hand thread, open-end mazilicutty to a sky hook.
With your phantom hand, tighten the mazilicutty while you remove the valve keepers with your other two hands.
As these parts come off, you will need to catch the springs with your teeth as they fly off.
Use large vice grips to remove old seal.
Install new seal with JB Weld.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Drink heavily.
Ride.

Hi guys. First post, and just had a thought reading this. Does this bike spend most of it's time on the sidestand? I had a 79 CBX that pulled this trick on me, to the point it started fouling the left outer plug. The Homer Simpson "Doh!" finally hit one day, and I realized the oil was pooling on the outer guide seals after shutting down. Took awhile, but 24 stem seals later, no problem. I'll post an intro soon. Great forum! Kyle Beckstrom

TexasKZ wrote:

PLUMMEN wrote:

how do you compress the spring on a kz head with it still on motor?

First you remove the tank and any other easily damaged parts.
Remove cam cover and cams.
Remove shim and bucket.
Attach a left-hand thread, open-end mazilicutty to a sky hook.
With your phantom hand, tighten the mazilicutty while you remove the valve keepers with your other two hands.
As these parts come off, you will need to catch the springs with your teeth as they fly off.
Use large vice grips to remove old seal.
Install new seal with JB Weld.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Drink heavily.
Ride.

it all makes sense now! :laugh:

Motor Head wrote:

If only the seal then the plug should not be effected, should stay the same color as others unless float level or loose jet, maybe plugged air bleed.
Oh and you could change the stem seal when you go to adjust the valves, no reason to remove the head. Hold the the valves in place with shop air, while at TDC firing position. Then you can take the spring off and change the seal. Really the valve can go nowhere when the piston is up, the shop air is to hold the valve to compress the spring.

Edit: I think you said 600 since rebuild. I would be doing a valve adjust and a oil change, re-torque the head, and exhaust bolts, ect. This would be a good time to put a new stem seal in, and if the piston is up, you can take away the air supply and then Wiggle the valve stem in the guide just to be sure it doesn't feel excessive.

Just adjusted valves about 10 miles ago. Changed oil again too. Didn't know you could change a seal with head installed - I'll keep that in mind. Thanks

PLUMMEN wrote:

...heres a sample plug from omrs commercial :woohoo:

Where do you come up with this stuff! :laugh: :laugh:

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationI don't own this tool, it is only a reference for you guy's. I use another tool, homemade sort of with some pieces from another set. The lever action and a fitting with a cut out window is needed.Then these are the best pair of pliers ever for pulling stem seals, or spark plug wires, or my finger! :laugh:
buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&to...on-store&dir=catalog

140354467548

kbex wrote:

Hi guys. First post, and just had a thought reading this. Does this bike spend most of it's time on the sidestand? I had a 79 CBX that pulled this trick on me, to the point it started fouling the left outer plug. The Homer Simpson "Doh!" finally hit one day, and I realized the oil was pooling on the outer guide seals after shutting down. Took awhile, but 24 stem seals later, no problem. I'll post an intro soon. Great forum! Kyle Beckstrom

kbex - welcome to the forum and thanks for the input. That's a very good point but my bike is on a lift and perfectly vertical when not being ridden (hopefully stays pretty close to vertical then too!). I've heard of carb problems when left on the sidestand - your scenario makes sense.

have you seen the stuff he comes up with?im totally outgunned most days! :woohoo:

79MKII wrote:

kbex wrote:

Hi guys. First post, and just had a thought reading this. Does this bike spend most of it's time on the sidestand? I had a 79 CBX that pulled this trick on me, to the point it started fouling the left outer plug. The Homer Simpson "Doh!" finally hit one day, and I realized the oil was pooling on the outer guide seals after shutting down. Took awhile, but 24 stem seals later, no problem. I'll post an intro soon. Great forum! Kyle Beckstrom

kbex - welcome to the forum and thanks for the input. That's a very good point but my bike is on a lift and perfectly vertical when not being ridden (hopefully stays pretty close to vertical then too!). I've heard of carb problems when left on the sidestand - your scenario makes sense.

I know on my 750 twin, when the valve seals would fail, the oil would leak down through the open valve after shutting off the engine. It often found it's way to a spark plug. I was carrying a spare set of plugs and a wrench at all times because the oiled plug would foul and neither would fire.

Another thing I learned: when the oil leaks down through the open valve when hot, it loads up the valve seat with crud. Eventually, the valve was not seating fully. My valve clearance on two valves was actually INCREASING by about .002" since previous check because valve could not fully seat. Needless to say, it ran like crap.

PLUMMEN wrote:

have you seen the stuff he comes up with?im totally outgunned most days! :woohoo:

You could make a pipe with one or more magnets inside. position the pipe on top the retainer, push down and up comes the whole assembly with keepers and all. Bet I could make it a couple hours with some junk. It would have to swivel to reach springs blocked by the frame.ETC. BETTER yet, make it air powered. Then to use it, pull the trigger and shoom! One down one to go... clear the keepers off the mag, line it on another spring SHOOM. Another one bites the dust.... another one bites the dust. WHUMP WHUMPWHUMP! ANOT