Exhaust valve color analysis?

its just a small drip inside there occasinally when its not running,by the time you fire up the motor it blows it out as carbon

Mother's makes Plug Electrode Shine? Where can I get it! I'm always struggling to keep those things looking there best...

$25? Not missing any zeros on there? :laugh:

79MKII wrote:

Mother's makes Plug Electrode Shine? Where can I get it! I'm always struggling to keep those things looking there best...

$25? Not missing any zeros on there? :laugh:

tough economy,thats all dave could afford to pay ! :woohoo:

Old Man Rock wrote:

Well know, how quickly they'll turn on ya :laugh: so wait a damn minute.... :laugh:

As I recall, some of you where informing Keith the same thing "Oh just ride it" well I was one who stated naw, open her up...

And what did he find... Cam chain jumped off the gear.. :ohmy: Tore shit up nicely at that as well...

So there...

boy i tell ya,get caught doing a peewee herman once in church and youre marked for life! :woohoo:

Here's a picture. The valve on the left is what 2,3 and 4 look like. Picture on right is #1. Now tell me YOU could sleep at night with this going on in YOUR garage! :laugh:

The back side of the port bowl looks drier, is this right? Then would suspect Guide/ stem seal issue. Is it possible on of those seals was damaged or installed crooked?

79MKII wrote:

I am currently experimenting by trying out different exhaust systems and I just noticed that my number 1 exhaust valve looks really different than the other three. Should I be worried?

The other 3 valves are dry and flat black looking - looks like a typical carbon coating from an exhaust. The #1 ex valve is super shiny black and looks wet. All around the #1 exhaust port is the same. I touched it and it's not wet - it actually feels sticky, kind of like syrup.

Does that color indicate an issue with the #1 cylinder? The rebuild only has around 600 miles on it with ALL new parts. Anyone ever see this?

Thanks

That is oil leaking down past the valve guide seal. Been there, seen that, too many times.

Motor Head wrote:

The back side of the port bowl looks drier, is this right? Then would suspect Guide/ stem seal issue. Is it possible on of those seals was damaged or installed crooked?

Yea, the back side IS drier. I think you guys are right about the seal. Should be OK to run for a while longer?? Winter will be here soon enough...

If only the seal then the plug should not be effected, should stay the same color as others unless float level or loose jet, maybe plugged air bleed.
Oh and you could change the stem seal when you go to adjust the valves, no reason to remove the head. Hold the the valves in place with shop air, while at TDC firing position. Then you can take the spring off and change the seal. Really the valve can go nowhere when the piston is up, the shop air is to hold the valve to compress the spring.

Edit: I think you said 600 since rebuild. I would be doing a valve adjust and a oil change, re-torque the head, and exhaust bolts, ect. This would be a good time to put a new stem seal in, and if the piston is up, you can take away the air supply and then Wiggle the valve stem in the guide just to be sure it doesn't feel excessive.

Thousand dollar question here... OEM seals or other aftermarket?

I too made this mistake... When I had Larry do my exhaust valves, had him swap them crap ones (I bought not thinking or listening of course :blush:) out with OEM seals... No smoky, no issues, just runs like hell....

Cheapest I found was at Babbits... ~ $9 each seal :pinch: but worth every penny...

And yes, I have 4500 miles on this build and sleep wonderfully at night.... :laugh:

heres a sample plug from omrs commercial :woohoo:

You suck Plummen... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Ok, so I'm anal :blush: in keeping/checking/measuring/tweaking my beloved out at all times... So sue me already.... There you happy now.... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: