Won't Idle

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25 Apr 2010 11:41 #363097 by ndfez
Replied by ndfez on topic Won't Idle
Well I just got done relooking at the sparkplugs 1,2,4 are okay,number 3 is running foul,black stuff is dry,smell gas on all them,the right side of the motor is really hot compared to the left side.An I also noticed on the number 3 boot it was arching off the engine but put electical tape around it for now an now its not arching.Any suggestions?What is the gap size for the spark plugs?

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25 Apr 2010 16:00 #363171 by JR
Replied by JR on topic Won't Idle
ndfez wrote:

......An I also noticed on the number 3 boot it was arching off the engine but put electical tape around it for now an now its not arching.Any suggestions?What is the gap size for the spark plugs?


Now that would probably give you a weak spark on that hole.
I would humbly suggest new plug caps and new plugs. If like mine then NGK B8ES. I cant remember the gap. Invariably new plugs have the correct gaps so I dont even check anymore.

1980 kz750E1, Delkevic exhaust

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25 Apr 2010 18:54 #363190 by ndfez
Replied by ndfez on topic Won't Idle
Why would one side of the motor be hotter than the other side for?

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25 Apr 2010 19:00 #363191 by Krusty_47
Replied by Krusty_47 on topic Won't Idle
ndfez wrote:

Why would one side of the motor be hotter than the other side for?


If you only have one cylinder firing on one side of the motor compared to 2 on the other the buildup of heat will not be even and the side that is firing on 2 will be hotter.

Also the same can be said for if one side is running lean and one side is running rich. The lean side will be hotter.

1976 KZ900 A4
1980 KZ1000 G1

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26 Apr 2010 06:03 - 26 Apr 2010 06:04 #363245 by Zthou1977
Replied by Zthou1977 on topic Won't Idle
Hi ndfez,

This is a link to an article from the KZRider filebase (KZ Information>Filebase>Non-model specific>The Best Plug Chart Ever): kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...d&gid=448&Itemid=108
It tells you a lot about your plugs.

From personal experience (this weekend to be precise) I can tell you that dry sooty plugs means it is running too rich. This can be because your airscrews (on other bikes these can be pilot screws) are adjusted wrong. I adjusted mine, and this seems to have solved the problem. It should also help with your idle. To get it running sweetly, you should also do a carb sync. Both adjustments are easy, check your factory manual. If you don't have one, get it, it will be the best investment in your bike you ever made.

Good luck!

1977 Z1000A1, 1982-1986 KZ1000P (built from two piles of parts), Moto Martin Z1200 (trying to get it registered), 1977 Z650B1
Utrecht, The Netherlands
Last edit: 26 Apr 2010 06:04 by Zthou1977.

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27 Apr 2010 18:51 - 27 Apr 2010 18:52 #363698 by ndfez
Replied by ndfez on topic Re kz750 resurrection
While I wait for my new coils,spark plugs, and bootsa to come in thought I would tackle my clutch problem(won't engage).I took off my clutch cover an was looking at the rod that goes from the slot in the clutch cover into the transmission(or motor don't know which)an it moves freely on the cover an inside the motor is this normal or am I missing something?
Attachments:
Last edit: 27 Apr 2010 18:52 by ndfez.

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27 Apr 2010 18:53 #363700 by ndfez
Replied by ndfez on topic Re kz750 resurrection
Sorry the left side of the rod went into the clutch cover,right side in the motor.

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28 Apr 2010 05:31 #363791 by ndfez
Replied by ndfez on topic Re kz750 resurrection
please help

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28 Apr 2010 06:21 - 28 Apr 2010 06:23 #363798 by Patton
Replied by Patton on topic Re kz750 resurrection
ndfez wrote:

While I wait for my new coils,spark plugs, and bootsa to come in thought I would tackle my clutch problem(won't engage).I took off my clutch cover an was looking at the rod that goes from the slot in the clutch cover into the transmission(or motor don't know which)an it moves freely on the cover an inside the motor is this normal or am I missing something?....


am I missing something? --- An FSM comes to mind. :laugh:

Probably only required a simple routine clutch push rod adjustment in the first place without any disassembly required.

kawasaki.com is a good source for parts diagrams showing exploded views, part identification, and more. Such as the clutch in each particular model.

Would clean up the adjuster mechanism and push rod, add some moli grease to both, and reassemble. Be sure the ball bearing at the deep end of the push rod didn't fall out, and if it fell out, put it back in before inserting the push rod.

After reassembly, perform the clutch push rod adjustment.

Good Fortune. :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 28 Apr 2010 06:23 by Patton.

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28 Apr 2010 07:58 #363817 by Sircraigery
Replied by Sircraigery on topic Re kz750 resurrection
That is a great question. Mine does the same thing. I haven't had the bike running with a chain, so I'll have to wait and see.

Let me know if you figure this out man. Check my bike in my gallery (it's a bobber chopper).

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28 Apr 2010 11:52 #363864 by ndfez
Replied by ndfez on topic Re kz750 resurrection
I went to the site an would not give me any info on my bike.I didn't see any ball bearing when I pulled it out would it be in the motor or what?

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28 Apr 2010 12:16 #363870 by Patton
Replied by Patton on topic Re kz750 resurrection
ndfez wrote:

I went to the site an would not give me any info on my bike.I didn't see any ball bearing when I pulled it out would it be in the motor or what?


What year KZ750 is the bike? :unsure:

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD

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