Motor Rebuild Time

6 more bolts and the motor is out.

Pistons look ok, cly look good no gouging or scoring. I have yet to do measurements

The head and valve need work definitely need valve seals.

Im tearing into the bottom end hopefully this weekend.

Any tricks on holding the drive sprocket still I don't have the "special tool" or the ability to make one.

I'll post pics tonight.

Here are my plans hopefully
APE 1075 kit + bore and sleeves
new valves
adj cams
Port/polish head
New cam chain
clean up bottom end and service transmission

When I get this done it should haul ass! When will be the question and how much haha

XL777 wrote:

6 more bolts and the motor is out...Any tricks on holding the drive sprocket still I don't have the "special tool" or the ability to make one....

If the question is about removing the countershaft sprocket and needing to hold it in position while unscrewing the nut, it's likely easier to accomplish before the engine is removed.

Otherwise, with the engine already removed, and without the special tool, some rigging with length of chain, plus an air impact wrench, and some heat, may be necessary.

Good Fortune!

Motor is out YEAH!

Monday I'm taking it to get solvent washed

Then soda blasted. Any idea where you can find bulk soda in Canada?

Check out the pics

s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk12/XL777/KZ%20Project/

Looks like my one of my local shops has exp. with the KZ. One guy used to race them and claims he has some performance parts.

Ported and polished head with stronger springs. 1075 cyl. and new 12:1 comp. pistons with cams. Not sure if he will part with them but any idea what this stuff would be worth used? I know its new costs.

Also how do you get 34 yrs of carbon build up off the pistons, head, and valves?

wire wheels work good for the valves and combustion chambers if you leave the valves in also good for the ports. 12 to 1 by the is way to much compression for the street in an air cooled 2 valve motor go for the 10.5-1 street kit. if you ever plan on driving it without the use of race gas. what shop are you going thru.

Ya 12:1 is a no go. I kinda like to buy the head though. He also has a set of smooth bores.

The shop is retro cycle in Red Deer. Nice guys very welcoming not like the local kawi shop bunch of jerks.

just my .02, but i would go with 10.5 to 1 max for the street....iirc about a .380 cam is tops for head without machine work(more dollars)......port and polish head is good....i would go with a new chain if going with stiffer springs.......ahh, but what the hell do i know...lol....good luck with your motorB)

XL777 wrote:

Also how do you get 34 yrs of carbon build up off the pistons, head, and valves?

Scotchbrite pads and elbow grease.

My my how quickly does the price add up lol.

Head sent in for complete rebuild $800

Cylinder sent to be bored out $400

New 1045 pistons $550

misc parts $400

Getting it all back together and running priceless

One question

I had to go with one size bigger pistons due to the bore. My mech recommended going with the 1045 rather then the 1075 since it doesn't add much more in performance and if you ever needed a bore out in the future you would need a new block.
What do you think? The 1075 seems to be the more favored option from my research any reasons why?

Why new sleeves for a 1075cc piston setup? :huh:
Unless of course yours are all gouged up or something...

Sorry I have not kept this post up to date. Busy summer family, work, etc. However, I am getting close to having the bike back up and running.

Project started out as just rings HA! Full top end rebuild, completely rebuilt head, 1045 bore, new pistons, is the final result should be sweet :)In the process I had the covers bead blasted and the block and head looks sharp.

I have posted some pictures to my photo bucket take a look. All that is left is valve adjustment and final odds and sods. Hopefully by week end I will get to fire it all up YEAH! Then the real fun begins tuning and breaking it all in.

s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk12/XL777/

What size cams are you doing? I had mine done last summer and I should have replaced the timing chain so the springs and the big cam stretched it out. If my head gasket didn't start leaking I may have destroyed the engine but as it was had to replace cam bearings and cams. I think the chain may have cut the block and the shavings may have blocked up the oil pump and caused a lot of damage. I am not sure, can only guess but I will split my cases next time on the 79 I have and do everything right at once and be done with it. Building the top up when the bottom is stock is probably not the best idea. But liska rollers and heavy duty chain and all of that other stuff costs money. Nothing is cheap I have found out but doing it right the first time is the basement sale price bargain of the year. Do it once and do it right no cutting corners is my motto.
XL777 wrote:

Sorry I have not kept this post up to date. Busy summer family, work, etc. However, I am getting close to having the bike back up and running.

Project started out as just rings HA! Full top end rebuild, completely rebuilt head, 1045 bore, new pistons, is the final result should be sweet :)In the process I had the covers bead blasted and the block and head looks sharp.

I have posted some pictures to my photo bucket take a look. All that is left is valve adjustment and final odds and sods. Hopefully by week end I will get to fire it all up YEAH! Then the real fun begins tuning and breaking it all in.

s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk12/XL777/