Motor Rebuild Time

Cam chain a good Idea, but you don't have to remove the motor and split the cases. They make Master links for a reason. I did all my own head work, and rings/ honing/ cam chain etc. All in frame, and an 82 1000 4 cyl. New valves for the exhaust was the most expensive, $27 each.

Motor Head wrote:

Cam chain a good Idea, but you don't have to remove the motor and split the cases. They make Master links for a reason. I did all my own head work, and rings/ honing/ cam chain etc. All in frame, and an 82 1000 4 cyl. New valves for the exhaust was the most expensive, $27 each.

a few people poo-poo the splitting cam chain and re-join deal....not taking anything away from these folks and their
many years of experience, but in a street re-build, this can be a succesfull endeavour...the key is making sure the staking of the pins is as good as ,if not better than the factory ones ...i ran my first cam chain re-link through the wringer and it held up......i now run a tsubaki hd with a master -link and so far all is fine......the important part is staking it right.......just my .02......

are those cam chains marked?

No never seen any "Marks", but the marks are on your crank and cams.

rt green wrote:

are those cam chains marked?

nope, just make sure you break chain on the correct two pins...dont ask how i know that....:laugh:

XL777 wrote:

So all you did to the motor was new rings?

Basically. I got new rings and cams, soda blasted the head because it was nasty, lapped the valves, and new valve seals. I wasn't going for a major overhaul...if you just want to do top end maintenance like me it doesn't have to be too expensive. My issue is that I got on a roll and couldn't stop... all I initially wanted to do was change the head gasket and valve adjustment. :blink:

Well I have torn it down to the head base and it is not looking pretty. A lot of oil through 1/4 valves and on top of the pistons. I will pull the pistons tomorrow night and see how bad that is.

Cyl 1 and 2

XL777 wrote:

Well I have torn it down to the head base and it is not looking pretty. A lot of oil through 1/4 valves and on top of the pistons.

It's buildup from the leak down from leaky valve seals. been there, seen that....

Fun... Another issue is how hard is it to have your spark plug re thread? Somehow I cross threaded it putting it back in last year ?????.... It was an SOB to get out and sure enough the threads are messed up on cyl 3.

Providing I have to bore out the cyl base I'm thinking of putting in the ape ssr1075 crank and piston kit.

Has any one done this and if so what else needs to be added and replaced to make the kit work

XL777 wrote:

Fun... Another issue is how hard is it to have your spark plug re thread? Somehow I cross threaded it putting it back in last year ?????.... It was an SOB to get out and sure enough the threads are messed up on cyl 3.

If standard tap won't fit beginning at the deep end due to space limitations, there's a "reverse tap" tool available that inserts from the outside and taps from the bottom where the threads may still be okay. Using the reverse tap doesn't require removal of the valve cover or head from the engine. Simply remove the spark plug and start using the reverse tap.

Also known as a "back tap" tool.

Good Fortune!