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A little more progress. W/pics
- badr0bot
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It's alive!! I finished putting it back together this morning. I then cranked the motor over with the starter until the oil light went out. After cranking a few seconds more, to insure oil was flowing to the top end, I turned the gas on. I was so surprised that it only took about one second of cranking to start!
I let it run for about 10 minutes with a fan blowing on the front of the motor. It runs good and sounds awesome with the new competition baffle. This evening after it's good and cool I will torque the head again. I still have a couple of things that I need to address before I can ride it. The little breather filter I bought won't work because it hits on the air pods. I also need to secure the side covers so they don't blow off.
I want to thank everyone here who gave me advice over the last few months. Especially LarryC, Keith1, OMR, RoyB (for the awesome deal on the carbs), and anyone else that I may have forgotten.
I bought that exact same filter for my case breather. I don't have that domed housing though so mine is low enough to clear my air pods.
87 KZ1000 P1
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- badr0bot
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kzzone.com/billet.html
This would be nice. Does anybody know if this is a good idea? If so I would just cork that hole and be done with it.
87 KZ1000 P1
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- Patton
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A question.. Do we need the breather? At the bottom of this page there's an aftermarket breather cover without a breather hole.
kzzone.com/billet.html
This would be nice. Does anybody know if this is a good idea? If so I would just cork that hole and be done with it.
Crankcase must vent to outside air.
Don't need a filter for the breather vent.
One option is to affix vent hose to route underneath bike.
See example pictured below.
Good Fortune!
[Click on image to enhance view.]
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- trianglelaguna
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- New and improved - extra strength
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otakar wrote:
Get rid of the breather filter and install a long hose that will exit somewhere behind your seat. This will prevent oil from spuing all over the back of your engine. This will also allow the oil to collect somewhere and run back into the engine.
1976 KZ900
2003 ZX12R
2007 FZ1000
2004 ninja 250R for wife
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- Patton
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Am guessing that EPA requirements may have since eliminated this type crankcase venting as a manufacturing option. (See image posted below.)
Racing applications may require a catch can or bottle at end of vent tune to contain oil emissions and help keep them off the track surface.
Engines in decent condition ought not have much oil vapor emitting from the vent, especially those with minimal piston blow-by.
But in any event, the vent tube's routing should be best situated whereby crankcase emissions from the exit end avoid the rear tire tread. Such as being orientated more toward the side of the bike so as to pass alongside the tire instead of dropping centrally located immediately in front of the rear tire -- Duh. :pinch:
Same for the battery vent tube where it exits underneath the bike. And also the carb overflow tube exits.
Good Fortune!
[Click on image to enhance view.]
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- 650ed
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Racing applications may require a catch can or bottle at end of vent tune to contain oil emissions and help keep them off the track surface.
quote]
A factory prepared BSA 500 flat track engine I owned had the vent tube routed just above the countersprocket so the oil would land on the chain. Probably be thown off the track today for doing this :laugh:
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Patton
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...A factory prepared BSA 500 flat track engine I owned had the vent tube routed just above the countersprocket so the oil would land on the chain. Probably be thrown off the track today for doing this :laugh:
Had forgotten about that earlier routing method, which back then seemed like a pretty good idea to help keep the chain lubed, especially before 0-ring chains came along. :lol:
Shades of 1973 Z1 chain oil pumps. :laugh: :laugh:
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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