Cleaning carbon from combustion chambers?

if youre going to all the trouble of tearing it down that far why not atleast check the guides and replace the seals?

definitly do the seals and check the stem to guide clearance that could be part of the reason it was so carboned up in the first place.there is always time to do it right, never to do it over.

otakar wrote:

zed1015 wrote:

Best thing to use for removing carbon is a piece of copper plumbing tube flattened at one end to form a scraper. The copper is harder than the carbon but softer than the alloy so no fear of damaging your castings or valve seats. Then lightly finish off with fine wire wool and polish with solvol if required. Also recommend replacing stem seals if pulling the valves as they are much cheaper than another top end strip and new gaskets later on.

I never knew that there was something "harder than carbon but softer than Aluminum" :blink: :woohoo: I think you have just become a rich and famous person :laugh:

OOp's :blush: . That should have read Hard enough to scrape off the carbon without damaging the casting. A well know method that's been around since god was a nipper.

You're going to get 10 replies telling you not to do this. To save everyone the trouble; Yes, it is caustic and yes, the mfg. does not recommend using it on aluminum. All I can say is it works great for me. Try it at your own risk. Spray the chamber with EZ Off oven cleaner, immediately work it with a stiff bristle nylon brush for a minute of so, and rinse with water. You may have to repeat this a few times for heavy deposits.
The manufacturer say it may cause discoloration (who cares in a CC) or mild pitting. Aluminum comes in a variety of alloys, and the warning has to consider all types. The soft polished cosmetic aluminum trim on an oven is far from the stuff your head is made of. Pitting may be a problem if you let it soak for a long period (like the 30 minutes listed in the instructions). I've never experienced any pitting.
Personally, I've caused more damage being overly aggressive with a wire brush or scraper than I ever have with EZ Off.

Here is my head after baking soda blasting, the whole head looked brand new. I lapped my valves back in and the seats seem to have no damage whatsoever.

I've done the EZ-OFF and that works good.
Wire wheeled before, that also works good, but long and tedious.
Soda is a good alternative, if it is applied correctly.
It will not damage even soft metals, and removes just about everything otherwise.
I've used gasoline before as well, left overnight works ok.

If I were in a hurry, the EZ-OFF or similar would be my way to go.
For a real pro cleanup, I'd have it soda'd.

In any case, I would be having the seats/valves cut new and lapped in.

ANYWHO... :laugh:

Whatever you do, just don't FUBAR the seats. :woohoo:

Be careful using oven cleaner. See advice below from

www.easyoff.us/faq.shtml


Can EASY-OFF® Heavy Duty Oven Cleaner be used on any aluminum?
We do not recommend using this product on aluminum, as it may pit and discolor it. However, it does not penetrate into the metal or remain on the surface after the recommended rinsing instructions have been followed. Utensils and appliances cleaned with EASY-OFF® Heavy Duty Oven Cleaner are completely safe for use in cooking or serving food after they have been thoroughly washed and rinsed in a vinegar and water solution.

i have one question why does everybody think it's a good idea to lap valves. if the valve job is done right you wont need to. if you lap valves all you are doing is wearing the freshly cut seat and your new or resurfaced valve out with grindin paste, kind of defeating the purpose of a valve job in the first place isn't it. if there are any small chatter marks left behind by the cutters with in seconds of fire up they will all flaten out anyway.

timebomb33 wrote:

i have one question why does everybody think it's a good idea to lap valves. if the valve job is done right you wont need to. if you lap valves all you are doing is wearing the freshly cut seat and your new or resurfaced valve out with grindin paste, kind of defeating the purpose of a valve job in the first place isn't it. if there are any small chatter marks left behind by the cutters with in seconds of fire up they will all flaten out anyway.

Define everybody! im the one whos usually on here talking against lapping valves! :laugh:

Has anyone used Seafoam?
I mean this stuff seems to work on a running engine but what about as a soaking agent and tooth brush for cleaning.... Does it work... hmmm, me wonder...

OMR

a valve job should be done with a slight difference in the angle cut on the valve and on the seat, normally about half a degree, this gives it a sharp edge to start the valve and seat to " seat " themselves in.
Lapping the valves does 2 things,1 it starts the seating process and 2 it confirms that the contact pattern is correct for the valve and seat.

Old Man Rock wrote:

Has anyone used Seafoam?
I mean this stuff seems to work on a running engine but what about as a soaking agent and tooth brush for cleaning.... Does it work... hmmm, me wonder...

OMR

No dice on the seafoam. My cc's were pretty bad but no amount of chemical would touch it. I even soaked it in dichloromethane and it did nothing.