Cleaning carbon from combustion chambers?

Okay, pistons and cylinders are done, now it's on to head on my 750-4. Chamber and valve tops are covered with wet looking carbon, obvious from oil burning (no gas smell). I can pull the valves and clean them on my steel wire wheel. But can I use a soft wire wheel, say brass or copper, on a drill, to clean the chambers, or would it damage the aluminum?

Further, the stems on all the valves are pretty clean, not wet with oil, so can I assume the seals are okay?
Thanks!

I would always put in new valve seals because I have had so much problems with them.

I don't think I would take a wire wheel to the head surfaces, can you get a bead blast?

Maybe even scotchbrite pads and nasty solvent.

Yea, I'll try the scotch bright first and see how it goes. As far as nasty solvent, well, I've been asking here and elsewhere about a solvent that actually works on aluminum, and as you might guess, I've heard a hundred different answers. I've tried Chemtool, acetone, gas, carb cleaner, etc. and nothing works very well. There are some strong Gunk cleaners out there, but they don't suggest use on aluminum.

I've noticed that the valve seals average about $2.50 apiece from most distributors. I've read where Suzuki seals can be used as a substitute, but they are about the same price. I'm poor (really poor), and wondering if any car seals would work as a substitute?

Best thing to use for removing carbon is a piece of copper plumbing tube flattened at one end to form a scraper. The copper is harder than the carbon but softer than the alloy so no fear of damaging your castings or valve seats. Then lightly finish off with fine wire wool and polish with solvol if required. Also recommend replacing stem seals if pulling the valves as they are much cheaper than another top end strip and new gaskets later on.

If you are going to take the head apart I recommend having it soda blasted. Th ehad will look brand new, and there is no chance for it to get damaged.

If you have the head pulled apart, a wire brush on a drill will clean the carbon from the ports, just dont get too agressive with it , and stay away from the seats,
Also, make sure you keep the valves in order so they can go back in the same spot they came from, otherwise you will need to grind the valves and seats.

any blasting will clean the head, but it will also mess up the seats.

last,,as stated,.replace the seals, you have it taken apart, nows the time to fix it right

BSKZ650 wrote:

If you have the head pulled apart, a wire brush on a drill will clean the carbon from the ports, just dont get too agressive with it , and stay away from the seats,
Also, make sure you keep the valves in order so they can go back in the same spot they came from, otherwise you will need to grind the valves and seats.

any blasting will clean the head, but it will also mess up the seats.

last,,as stated,.replace the seals, you have it taken apart, nows the time to fix it right

Why would soda blasting mess up the seats?

9am53 wrote:

BSKZ650 wrote:

If you have the head pulled apart, a wire brush on a drill will clean the carbon from the ports, just dont get too agressive with it , and stay away from the seats,
Also, make sure you keep the valves in order so they can go back in the same spot they came from, otherwise you will need to grind the valves and seats.

any blasting will clean the head, but it will also mess up the seats.

last,,as stated,.replace the seals, you have it taken apart, nows the time to fix it right

Why would soda blasting mess up the seats?

anytime you media blast the seats, it takes the edge of of them, viaa the media hitting the seat, it changes the contact pattern, you might get away with relapping the valves, but not something I would do

zed1015 wrote:

Best thing to use for removing carbon is a piece of copper plumbing tube flattened at one end to form a scraper. The copper is harder than the carbon but softer than the alloy so no fear of damaging your castings or valve seats. Then lightly finish off with fine wire wool and polish with solvol if required. Also recommend replacing stem seals if pulling the valves as they are much cheaper than another top end strip and new gaskets later on.

I never knew that there was something "harder than carbon but softer than Aluminum" :blink: :woohoo: I think you have just become a rich and famous person :laugh: A Popsicle stick with "Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner" (Part # 04318001) work great, If your valves don't leak, just leave the spark plugs in and fill the chambers up with the stuff and let it sit over night. When you come back the next day just wipe it out with a rag. They will look like this.

I guess I just don't understand how baking soda can do anything to steel when it doesn't do anything to aluminum

BSKZ650 wrote:

9am53 wrote:

BSKZ650 wrote:

If you have the head pulled apart, a wire brush on a drill will clean the carbon from the ports, just dont get too agressive with it , and stay away from the seats,
Also, make sure you keep the valves in order so they can go back in the same spot they came from, otherwise you will need to grind the valves and seats.

any blasting will clean the head, but it will also mess up the seats.

last,,as stated,.replace the seals, you have it taken apart, nows the time to fix it right

Why would soda blasting mess up the seats?

anytime you media blast the seats, it takes the edge of of them, viaa the media hitting the seat, it changes the contact pattern, you might get away with relapping the valves, but not something I would do

if you decide to use a nylon wheel on a drill in the chambers stickthe valves back in there to protect the seats.
Dont forget to check valve guides,id definately replace the seals at a minimum and a valve job wouldnt hurt since youre that far in anyway.

Why put in all that effort, when you only have to soak it off, and get better and nondestructive results.