How to dry block your kz900/1000.

Thanks for the reply. The -6 lines you originally talked about was confusing me. knowing that they are dash 4 makes more sense.

thankx

zed1015 wrote:

hx35w wrote: Can you tell me more about the banjo fittings and hoses? such as earls part numbers seems to me that when the swivel ends are inserted into the hose the 5mm I/D would be reduced to around 3mm. The I/D in all the banjo's I found is about 2.3mm
I'm missing something here. I sure could use some help on identify the parts needed.

thanks

The hoses are Earls dash 4, They are about 5mm id.
The banjos are also dash 4 to take a 10mm banjo bolt.
I make my own banjo bolts out of m10 capheads ( just because i have them on the shelf) and drill a 5mm bore up the center.
You will have no problems with this set up.
My everyday ride has run perfecly like this for over 10 years now.

hx35w wrote: Thanks for the reply. The -6 lines you originally talked about was confusing me. knowing that they are dash 4 makes more sense.

Oop's! Sorry about that,Just noticed i'd typed -6 instead of -4 :blush:
Have been through the thread and corrected my mistake.
Must have had a hangover when i typed it :laugh:

Did you purchase the components and assemble the lines, or were the lines already built and you bought the banjos to add on? I noticed Earl's and Russell sells them both ways.

Jerry

Yes ! i buy the hose and the banjo's seperately so the lines can be made to fit perfectly.

I use the rebuildable type with the brass olives so they can be reused or altered if needed.

How streetable is a dry-block set up? I'd be worried if I were on a dirt bike riding through heavy brush, but I'm just talking about street use? I'd imagine if you figured out how to run some lock washers on the fittings, it'd be pretty alright, no? It's been a long weekend, you can't loctite banjo bolts, right? Wouldn't the loctite plug up the passages?

u should not have to worry. is no dif than your brake lines. no loctite there.

mtbspeedfreak wrote: How streetable is a dry-block set up? I'd be worried if I were on a dirt bike riding through heavy brush, but I'm just talking about street use? I'd imagine if you figured out how to run some lock washers on the fittings, it'd be pretty alright, no? It's been a long weekend, you can't loctite banjo bolts, right? Wouldn't the loctite plug up the passages?

Run mine on the street for over 10 years - everyday - no problems.
They never come loose.
Just use std copper washers.

This is one of the best threads I've ever seen on this forum. A solid 10

zed1015 wrote: Now you need an alternate external oil feed to your cams.

Here is the one of the four bungs that need removing (one at each corner). These can be drilled out direct or carefully drilled up the middle and tapped m5 to accept a draw bar type extractor.

Once out i drill and tap m10 the head to accept a 10mm banjo bolt and also spot face the casting to provided a clean flat sealing surface.

ZED, I am wanting to dry block my 1000 and i was wondering how long of banjo bolt are you running?

They really need to be 2x the diameter in to aluminium to reduce the risk of stripping etc.
I made my own from stainless capheads as i couldn't find single banjo bolts long enough as they all seem to be made for brake line applications.
Think i used 30mm or 40mm bolts and bored them 5mm.

Thanks for all the great info. Iam kinda on the fence on wether i wanna go your route or tuxedititos as linked on pg2. i kinda like having only one line that goes to each side and then tees off. But i am concerned about if it will flow enough oil. I also hate to cut up my fins to make the fittings work. I like your idea i just wonder how having to run that much extra lines will afffect your ability of checking and maintaing oil levels. I am going to try to figure out how i can get the best out of both. any suggestions or ideas?

You don't have to cut the fins just run the lines up and over, it is ok to "T" them too as long as the hose bore is big enough.
I only did that for neatness and a bit of detail.
There's a few different ways you can run the feeds and this thread was really a guide about which oil galleries to block etc.
I have just done another Zed and took a cooler feed from the main gallery plug on the right, up to the cooler and then to a four way splitter under the tank to feed the head.
That configuration keeps the oil pressure switch and the cooler is solely for the cam feeds.