valve stem seal installation

So, Plummen blew a seal... I simply goo and press on w/ nutdriver/appropriate 1/4" socket before installing valve. When I cut new seats, (Pre-neolithic neway hand set) w/ used valves, I lap. it reveals holidays/pits in valves and give a better indicator of seat width than prussian blue. It also gives a better solvent leak test. any valve which is stellite faced, NO. new period valves/stainless w/new guides, i touch lightly w/fine. Guides which are obviously shot go to a pro and money well spent. luck g

timebomb33, I havn't had the seats cut yet, but the people Im talking to have offered to install the guides, cut the seats, assemble the head, [with cams] and will trim the stems to bring the clearances back to the middle of the range. I like the sound of this because I dont want a fresh head with 2.20 shims in it. The problem is that it would seem counter productive to have all this done and then be taking the head apart to maybe undo their good work. [and probably bugger it up]
I remember I think Steel [not gospel] saying that a seat should be finally lapped even after a full valve job[apologies in advance to Steel if my memories are fooling me].
I've gone a bit crazy with this, new oem pistons,engine chains,o/p bearing,clutch etc,I have a confession to make, I spent so much I think it might be my fault were in a recession:woohoo:
There seem to be so many opinions on this, and by people who know a lot more than me that it would be a great help to get a opinion from someone who's done it and proved which is the right way to go with this.
Thankyou in advance for any help on this

i don't lap fresh valve jobs because when you cut the seats you cut them to a certain width i try for .040 wide and if you lap them you effectivly widen that contact area when the motor first fires up any chatter marks from the cutters get flattened down and trust me if the seats are cut concentric the valves will seal one of the main reasons that in years past guy's would lap valves is because the seats were cut with stones, and they thought the vavle in order to get proper seal had to be basicly worn into the seat for it to seal but also back then valves were made from different m,aterials they did not have stellite coatings like they do now for unleaded fueluse inthose days the fuel had lead in it to cushion the pounding into the valve seat. one of the main reasons that you shouldn't lap is the stellite coating on most valves is only .003" thick so you can see it qwouldn't take much to wear thru it in to the nice soft valve underneath.thus making it easier to wear out your nice new valve. i hope this explains this better for you if these guy's are going to do every thing for you let them do their job it sounds like they know the procedure they mentioned reshimming that is good because if you had to do that job you would need a bucket of shims these guys sound like they are pro's who is doing it if you don't mind me asking.

timebomb33, thanks a lot, what youre saying makes sense, these are the guys I'm dealing with. Even though they are British bike nuts they had a load of Japanese machines in the workshop when I went up there and they were recomended by a guy whose my lifetime buddy, [shame he rides a Bmw!]
www.srm-engineering.com/
Im in England incidentlyB)
Thanks again for your advice, I'll go with it.

definitly use these guys they have one of the latest serdi seat cutting machines they are the finest seat cutting machines out there i would kill to have one or give my left nut to have one i think you will be happy with the work they will do for you. i do all my own headwork and if i lived there i would stop and let these guy's do it for me just because of that machine they have.just get them to do the stock angles unless they recomend something different the stock angles are 30,45,60 degrees

timebomb33, much obliged, as a side issue,in my search for engineers Ive even had one guy tell me that theres no need to hone,[really!] and he thinks hes touching my baby...
I'm indebted to you, thanks again:)

not a problem that's why i hang out here just to give away my hard earned knowledge besides you guys are all to far away to give me any extra work anyway glad i could help. let me know how it goes. and have fun with it. also i don't think you put us in the recession we are in was done to us by greedy bastards and crooked politicans on both sides of the pond.

timebomb33 wrote:

i don't lap fresh valve jobs because when you cut the seats you cut them to a certain width i try for .040 wide....

TB's batt'n a thousand as .040" hits midway FSM KZ1000 specs 0.8-1.2mm

Interesting that Z1-KZ900 FSM specs are .04-.06" ( 1.0-1.5mm).

Sorry, no FSM at hand for 1980 KZ500-B2.

Good Luck!

actually i'm only batting .750 tonight i missed the rubber spark plug boot thingee i are idiot

29 years go i coont spell plummer,now i are wun !:laugh: