bottom end

maybe someone here knows.... mine was like 25mm of slack


my other issue is there are 2 bearings stuck in the side of the upper case half and they wont come out. One is the big ball bearing for the one end of the starter shaft, the other is a big roller bearing which I think goes to the end of the shift drum.

anyone got any tips on getting those out? I dont think they should be stuck like that

so I chose natural finish, but I did put a clearcoat on as a sealer so it will be easy to keep clean. Its a 2 part catalyzed clear

so I chose natural finish, but I did put a clearcoat on as a sealer so it will be easy to keep clean. Its a 2 part catalyzed clear

looking good!

there was a reason mother kaw put babbits in the middle weights and rollers in the big one's.
just on my experiance, i have reused MANY main Bearings in smaller cc motors with no ill effects.
if you find someone who sells factory correct bearings, please let me know.

plasticgauge has always been in spec for me.

the smaller one's have a problum with the starter clutch, but other then that, i find them rather bulletproof.

i beat the sh#t out of mine and the brother in laws all the time.

if the plasticgauge shows it in spec, i say run with it.

crank still measures to new specs

jzanutto;

so I chose natural finish, but I did put a clearcoat on as a sealer so it will be easy to keep clean. Its a 2 part catalyzed clear

I'll be doing this soon I hope. As I understand it, the common choices for blasting media are silica sand, sand, crushed glass and glass beads (ton of others). Which did you use and what is the catalyzed clear, manufacturer, etc. I've use Dupont 780S before and it held up extremely well. The only thing is that it darkened the bright glass beaded surface somewhat. Small tradeoff for the corrosion resistance and sealing properties. I'm after the "factory new" finish that came on the castings (with zero maintaintence afterwards) I'd like to experiment with using steel shot or walnut shell before I actually decide on the process. Thanks for the pictures and keep 'em coming. Ride safe, Steve

i'd be very carefull with glass bead any engine parts that have been cleaned with bead should be washed in hot soapy water then pressure wash really well when you think that you have it clean wash it with the pressure washer about 6 times more and blow it off really well with compressed air i can not overstress the cleaning too much use brushes on any and all the passages and oil gallerys then wash it again. just becareful i've always liked the finish of bead blasting but have always been nervous about doing it that is why most of my engines get painted flat black or black wrinkle.

it was some generic stuff called spraymax. It is in a rattle can - there is a plunger on the bottom that you push and it mixes the 2 parts then you shake and spray. Nice nozzle on the can gets results as good as a gun. I have shot Nason clear through my gun, it works good.

We have glass beads at work, and we also have a plastic media blaster. The glass beads on aluminum is a little brighter than original but is sure is clean and uniform looking. I pressure wash out all the passages, then I use pipe cleaners with a little bit of sticky grease on them and run them through the passages to pick up anything that might be missed. THen once more with a clean pipe cleaner to remove any greasy residue. Never had any problems with doing it that way.

I think that if a person is anything less than 100% meticulous you would then run a risk of leaving some residue behind

I love reassembly

i love running them on the dyno for the first time.