Degree Wheel Setup & CAM Tutorial?

I don't understand why you are doing it that way. It seems to me that the easy way to set the cams is on the motor after installing the head. Set the cams in straight up and lined with the timing marks, then loosen the sprocket bolts a little and rotate the cam while watching the dial indicator, when it gets to the right spot then tighten the sprocket bolts.

This way does require a minimum of coordination, you have to hold the cam from rotating with one hand while tightening the bolts with the other, but the average person should be able to do that.

Just seems to be that you are doing a whole lot of extra work for no benefit.

if u bolt it all up then check all of your clearances u may have to buy all new gaskets if something is out.
On a fist time build it makes sence to me.
I discovered that my valve to valve clearance was to small with my oversize valves. Also my piston to head clearance required a thicker base gasket due to milling of the block.
Never hurts to check all the clearances on a new build.
You need to verify that all the work the machine shop did was correct. anyone can make a mistake.
Works for me.

Here are the spec's that my engine builder give to me for future referanes.On a spreed sheet on C-D
Bore- 2.992"

Stroke- 2.596"

Head Gasket Thickness .043"

Head Gasket Diameter 3.012"

Piston Height .003" above Deck

Combustion Chamber 36cc

Dome Volume 10cc

Compression Ratio 10.75/1

Displacement 1200cc



Valve Spring Information for Web Cams Springs VS-K10 Intake Exhaust
Installed Height 1.320"- 1.340" 1.320"- 1.340"
Seat Pressure 90psi 90psi
Open Pressure 240lbs@.425" lift 240lbs@.425" lift
Max. Valve Lift .425" .425"
Coil Bind .575" lift .575" lift



Camshaft Specifications for Web Cams Grind #110 Intake Exhaust
Valve Lash .006" .006"
Valve Lift .395" .395"
Duration 284* 284*
Duration @ .050" 256* 256*
Lobe Center 106* 108*
Lobe Seperation Angle 107*
Valve Opens 22* Before TDC 56* Before BDC
Valve Closes 54* After BDC 20* After TDC
Cams Installed @ 106* 108*



Valve Information Intake Exhaust
Head Diameter 37.5mm 31mm
Installed Height #1 - #4 1.486" 1.485"
Valve-Valve Clearance @ Seat .180"
Valve-Valve Clearance @ Overlap .059"
Valve to Piston Clearance >.130" >.130"
Cylinder Head Information Intake Exhaust
Valves 37.5mm SS "J" Model 31mm SS KZ 1000
Retainers Stock Steel Stock Steel
Keepers Radius Groove Radius Groove
Springs WC VS-K10 WC VS-K10
Spring Shims
Cylinder 1 0 .015"
Cylinder 2 0 .015"
Cylinder 3 0 .015"
Cylinder 4 0 .015"
Shim Bucket Type SOT SOT
Valve Shims
Cylinder 1 2.6mm 2.5mm
Cylinder 2 2.6mm 2.5mm
Cylinder 3 2.55mm 2.5mm
Cylinder 4 2.65mm 2.5mm
Valve Angle Cut 2 2
Seat Angle Cut 3 3
Cylinder Head Type KZ 1000


Piston Information on JE #132493
Rod Length 5.3905"
Dome Height .190"
Compression Distance .979"
Valve Pocket Depth Intake .140" from Deck
Valve Pocket Depth Exhaust .080" from Deck
Top Groove .040"
Second Groove .0485"
Oil Groove .111"
Pin Diameter .669" = 17mm
Pin Length 2.253"
Pin Retainer JE .050" Wire Lock
Target Piston Weight 226g
Piston to Cylinder Clearance .0025"



Crank Shaft Information
End Clearance- Out of Cases .014"
Connecting rod Side Clearance
Journal 1 .016"
Journal 2 .015"
Journal 3 .015"
Journal 4 .016"
Crankshaft type Mark II - Welded
Rod Wrist Pin Diameter 17mm



Cylinder Information
Sleeve Type Weisco 1200cc- New
Ring End Gap Top Second
Cylinder 1 .014" .020"
Cylinder 2 .014" .020"
Cylinder 3 .014" .020"
Cylinder 4 .014" .020"


Carbuerator information
Carbuerator Type 34mm Mikuni Flat slide
Main Jet 140
Pilot Jet 20
Accelerator Pump Yes
Needle Location Center
Needle Length

Looks like a good build. Looks like they took about .030" off the cyl top Is that right? You will only have .040" piston to head clearance , thats thin for the street but ok. This will bump up the compression. Hopefully this wont be too high for pump gas.did u discuss this with him? do u have a Dyna 2000 and grey 2.2 ohm coils?
They would help.
140 mains may be a little rich but it wont hurt to start there. u may find u have to lower the needle 1 clip as well.

We took .020" off the block to get the squish -squeeze were we need it to be, with a .020" base gasket.When the weather warms up ,will be braking in engine on a Dyno Jet dyno with AFM to get the carbs dailed in.For now will be using a Dyna S with 3 ohm coils.With the squish squeeze set this will help elimate detination.Will be real close with pump fuel

I ran my 1135 like that but i had more duration on the cams and that was 25 years ago when the octane was higher. I did have a stock ignition though.
When i resarted it 3 years ago (after it sat for 22 years)it ran on todays gas but the compresion was now down to 160 psi.
After you get that going your psi will be around 225 or more.
What are your plans if it is too much?
What can u tell me about the squish? U will get a better burn but how do u know how much u need and how much is too much?
Why dont the piston manufacturers make the piston taller to get more sqwish,and compresion, and reduce the dome? The dome is counter productive to the flame path.

After doing all calculations ,cranking compresion will be around 160-170.After I get it on the dyno ,I will list all the final settings and out put numbers.

Speedomotive did a lot of research into squish and posted their findings online a few years ago, I don't believe it's available online currently.

According to Speedomotive, a squish distance greater than .040" is ineffective, the less distance the better. They mentioned one customer that actually had the pistons kissing the head at redline. Kissing the head is just a little to close for comfort, IMHO

Try,Performance tuning in Theory and Practice, by A.Graham Bell. My copy-rite is 1986, and is falling apart as I must re-read everything about three times before I get a clue. It does however explain finding TDC, Degree wheel use, Lobe centers, Overlap, and some tables/graphs on specific motors (to include Kaw 400-1100 4's) At one time I'm sure I had an article by Mr.Cameron which was much easier to fathom, tho It eludes me now. G

kaw-62046 wrote:

After doing all calculations ,cranking compresion will be around 160-170.After I get it on the dyno ,I will list all the final settings and out put numbers.

That doesnt seem possible.My 1327cc motor is closer to 170psi right now and it blows oil (badly).when i added oil to the cyl and retested i got 220psi.
My old 1135cc block wich was decked about .030" is at Fast BY gast now for a rebore to 1200cc. Paul sugested that i use a .050" base gasket. I will call him today and let u know what he says.

steell wrote:

I don't understand why you are doing it that way. It seems to me that the easy way to set the cams is on the motor after installing the head. thats what i didSet the cams in straight up and lined with the timing marks, then loosen the sprocket bolts a little and rotate the cam while watching the dial indicator, when it gets to the right spot then tighten the sprocket bolts.thats kind of the right idea. you cant get an accurate reading of the cam centerline though. you must measure the amount of lift before and after to determine the centerline of the lobe. same as finding TDC with a positive stop. to set the cam you have to check to see where the centerline is. loosen the bolts on the sprocket, rotate the motor a tiny bit(cam will move one way or another depending on what springs are being compressed) tighten the sprocket bolts and check again. after you get the desired numbers you check PTV using the light spring so you can push the valve down to touch the piston at various places. rotate motor untill ex is closing and in is opening(on overlap) put motor at about 15 deg BTDC. put dial indicator on ex bucket and zero it. push down on bucket untill valve hits piston, note the travel of the DI. advance motor to until 10 deg BTDC repeat measurement. tightest spot should be between 10 and 5 deg BTDC. same with in but tight spot between 5-10 deg ATDC. safe numbers imo .035" quench and .045/.055" in/ ex PTV with forged pistons

This way does require a minimum of coordination, you have to hold the cam from rotating with one hand while tightening the bolts with the other, but the average person should be able to do that.

Just seems to be that you are doing a whole lot of extra work for no benefit.

kaw-62046
I talked to my eng builder , Gord Bush Performance ,and he says .040" piston to head clearance will be ok.He said i may have to adjust the cams lob centers to reduce compression if i have trouble with pre ignition.
I run .424" lift, 260* dur cams. 108 to 110 Lobe centers should be good. You have to watch the v to v clearance with smaller LC's due to the larger valves.
Then I talked to Paul Gast. He recommends putting the piston .005" to .010" below the deck. With the standard .043" head gasket, this will give u a .048 to .053" piston to head clearance.
He says it's not worth the bother to try to get a less than 1 hp gain.
1 thing about Paul’s theory would be that if u run .040", and u have to end up adjusting the lobe centers from ,say 108 to 110, u will loose a bit of bottom end.
What do u guys have to add to this?
Would u go with .040" to gain a fraction of a horse power or go with .050" to allow yourself to put the cams where u want them rather than where u HAVE to put them due to pre ignition ?
I'm thinking .050".
Any other theories are welcome, of course.