Degree Wheel Setup & CAM Tutorial?

i got your old fart!:laugh:

hahahahahahaha.... Yeah but if that was you, you'd crap yourself! :laugh:

Just found this... Seems like a good deal considering the APE tools alone would cost $42 plus shipping...

Anyone use or know of this being good enough?

Or, do I really need all this where a degree wheel and top dead center tools is really all that is required?

omr that should be every thing you will need except for an extention for the dial indicator. also there is option 2you could just put your cams in straight up for now. and then wait for proffesser plummen[notice the extra f it is not a miss print he deserves an extra f because he is so wise]to come up.when you are putting your slotted cam sprockets on the cam for degreeing tighten down one bolt and put the other 2 in loosly to just to locate the sprocket.

If u choose to degree them yourself ,u will need ALL of the items u mentioned above.
Do u need to degree them? I'd say yes but u could get away without.You ARE building for MORE power in the first place right.

1 big advantage of doing it yourself is the learning factor. Also the peace of mind that u will get when u use the dial indicator to verify other measurements.Like piston deck hieght,valve to valve clearance.Valve run out, valve guide ware, disk brake warpage,Table saw tunning...
The dial indicator will not go to waste.
U now have foreign non stock parts in your bike.No matter who does the work u should verify that it is correct. Your cams a a perfect example of this. If Larry did not Verify there correctness the motor would be trash.You should do the same .I just got a set cases back from a builder.He had to correct the top surface, wich was out .0045" from beeing in alignmet with the crank.
You should call Larry and ask his opinion.Maybe he could degree them to a motor at his shop for a small fee?.They would be dif in your motor but only slightly.

While we're on the subject. How does everyone atatch there dial indicator to the head? This may be helpfull to OMR. I clamp a 24" "Qwick Grip" wood clamp to the head, and stick the indicator to the clamp.

Hey Mark,

"1 big advantage of doing it yourself is the learning factor."... As always, you hit that right on the nose for this is a must with me.... I'm all for learning and educating my mind/knowledge.

I just spoke with Larry and he gave me this advice...
"You cheap bastard, after all the beautiful things you did on this project, don't go cheap now".... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

I just placed my order for the kit, I'm now setting up for Dale Walker's Tune for Power, Step by Step Cam Degreeing DVD.

Again, after everything I've been through on this project I just want it done right. Not to mention I have the adjustable APE cam sprockets I want to install so these tools will be required as I've learned.

With OEM cams and sprockets, the OEM shop manual procedure will be good but for any CAM upgrades, head clearance work, sprockets whatever, you must degree the cams for proper operations but as you and the others mentioned, increased power for which is the reason went this route versus OEM...

I was just making sure I had what I needed... I have numerous CAM manufacturer articles on the calculations and methods of degreeing and in speaking with Larry and you guys, I should be good to go.

David Carradine, Kung Fu accent:
Me so sorry master, I was acting like a pussy! :blush:

Thanks all,

OMR

Find some light springs to use, rather than the actual valve springs. Something that u can compress with your fingers easily. Just install 1 in and x valve, not all 8.
Put the TDC finder in the opposite bank of the valves (#1 for me). I put the valves in #4 and the degree wheel on the points end of crank. Ask Larry how he attaches the dial indicator.
When u get to adjusting. I find it works well to loosen the cam bolts, adjust the crank a degree or 2 (Whatever is needed) and snug 1 cam bolt back up again, and then recheck.
When it is time to install the cams over actual springs, I use long threaded rods with nuts on it, to pull the cams down on the high side (the lobe that is facing down). This prevents stripping the threads.
Good luck with it .If we can help, holler.

"light springs to use"...Yup, Larry sated the same but the downfall is I don't have a valve compression tool....

Sonsabitch, I should just go friggin buy one of these as well....

I hate all of you, you're worst than my friggin ex-wife regarding pulling money out of my wallet. You all must think I'm just "Stumpy the Magic Wallet" aka friggin money tree :S
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

FOr as much money you guys get me to spend, Hell, I could just fly one of you sonabitches here to do it for me... It'd be cheaper anyways.

OMR

I hate to save u some money but what the heck, hear goes.
You can make your own spring compressor.
U can use a large c clamp or better still 1 of the sliding type. That’s what i use. Then u can cut out the side of a piece pipe. About 2” long and the diam of the retainer.
A pencil tip type magnet is invaluable to insert the keepers.
There u go, now u have saved enough to buy the degree kit.LOL

Very funny hahahahahaha.... I found a tutorial on the web of that concept, I believe there was one on here as well...

I just hate to change what work Larry has done for me and possibly screw it up...

Same time, it won't be the first nor the last time I screw something up for it's the way I learn. Example, bust a friggin hole in your engine cases and you'll learn real fast! :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Damn that still pisses me off, what a stupid ass thing to do! :laugh: Maybe Dr Homer can fix me....:blush:

OMR

save the box from larry incase you screw up youll have a ready made shipping container!:ohmy: :huh: :dry: :blink: :S :kiss: :woohoo: :laugh: im going to hide now!:laugh: