Kz900 Engine casing crack after slight explosion. No clutch activity now.

Torque clutch hub nut 87-108 ft-lbs. Washer imprinted "outside" on KZ1000 models, so install accordingly if so marked.

Torque the five spring mounting bolts -- cross tighten evenly with 78-95 in-lbs.

Good Luck!

Nahman wrote:

I'm currently in the process of putting everything back together. Is this strange? I was putting on the outside cover and I was having a really tough time. The shifting rod wasnt going through the hole in the case. There wasnt any gunk in there just metal. Are there some variances in the size of shifting rods? Any how I'm going to go to home depot and buy a file and shave it down just a tad.

A Z1/KZ pushrod is about 6.7 mm. the GPZ pushrod is 7mm and won't fit.Trust me,the first one Z1 sent me was the wrong GPZ pushrod.I really doubt you could file it,maybe turn it down on a lathe...The GPZ pushrod is 2 piece construction and you can see the difference from a Z1/KZ unit. If you didn't clean out the pushrod shaft hole after breaking the pushrod,it won't move properly due to the galling.

I just want to thank every body for their help. It took me a really long time but I got the cover on. Like you guys know thwere were two broken bolts in the bottom. I tried to take Wiredgeorge's advice and drill the bolts out. To put it lightly I screwed up. Horrrible, horrible job. So I had to find someone to do it for me. FOund someone nearbuy who could tap the hole and they did a pretty good job. Now the cover is on pretty securely. So yeah now the clutch works pretty good now... I think. I fired er up put er in first let the clutch out and fed er some gas...I start creeping forward really really slowly. 3,000, 4,000 rpm clutch all the way out and I'm going two miles per hour. What the heck is wrong? Nothing else was changed since the cover exploded. I took the chain and front sprocket off earlier and put it back on (the numbers on the sprocket are supposed to face out right?) Its been a month since I bought the old kz and she hasnt been ridden. I'm upset. What could it be? The engine seems to be running pretty well.

Am thinking that for whatever reason,
the clutch plates are not fully engaging.

As earlier noted, the clutch pushrod is supposed
to move easily back and forth within its shaft.
There's nothing in its way inside the shaft until
making contact with the ball bearing between it
and the mushroom piece.

Sounds like the new pushrod might now
be "sticking" inside the shaft and thereby
preventing the clutch plates from fully engaging.
This would have a similar effect as if the
adjustment screw was too tight, or not enough
slack in the cable, or a frayed inner cable
disallowing smooth action from the handlebar
lever end to the other end where it exits underneath
the front chain cover (aka case cover).

Recall that some manuals contain erroneous
instructions as to which direction to turn
the adjustment screw when setting the pushrod gap
before tightening the locknut.

With the clutchrod completely removed from
the bike, is the clutch then fully engaged?
Under this circumstance, the clutch should
fully engage with the plates being tightly
held together by pressure of the clutch
springs -- and if not fully engaged, the
slippage issue is not attributable to anything
between the handlebar lever and the mushroom,
but is attributable to some other problem
within the clutch assembly.

And just to confirm parts terminology,
the "front chain cover" (Part #3 in the
posted diagram) means the large visible
aluminum outside case cover on a fully assembled
bike, with the removable finned "oil pump cover"
(Part #9) allowing access to the clutch pushrod
adjuster screw and locknut. The small thin
lightweight cover closely surrounding the
countershaft sprocket (Part #11) is the
"engine sprocket cover" hidden from view
underneath the front chain cover on a
fully assembled bike.

Keep the Faith!

Yea, what Patton said!:lol:

Make sure your clutch cable has proper slack. The adjustment starts with the actuator and then final settings can be made with the cable adjusters (one about mid-cable and another at the clutch lever). You don't want all of the slack taken up or the clutch might not be allowed to fully engage.

You're getting close - don't give up!