Bike won't start after rebuild

Hey Guys,

gpzrox: I tried switching the power wires and it didn't seem to change anything, but I probably shouldn't assume that the power wires to the coils were correct in the first place or that I didn't reverse them. If I reversed them somehow then there are more than a few combinations I'll have to try.

Patton: I've double checked that they are as you recommended, cylinders 1&4 are on the same coil and cylinders 2&3 are on the other.

I've been re-reading about the timing and I'll get an ohm meter today. If the timing is 180 degrees out of rotation would I see a low resistance reading at the "F" marks and a high resistance reading at the opposite positions?

The lobe on the points cam should begin opening the lefthand side points as the 1/4 "F" mark coincides with the permanent mark on the engine case. The wire from the lefthand side points (often black) connects to a primary terminal on whichever coil is firing the outside sparkplugs on cylinders #1/4.

The lobe on the points cam should begin opening the righthand side points as the 2/3 "F" mark coincides with the permanent mark on the engine case. The wire from the righthand side points (often green) connects to a primary terminal on whichever coil is firing the inside sparkplugs on cylinders #2/3.

As known, each coil has two primary terminals. Only a single wire connects to each coil terminal.

Switched battery voltage (often a red/yellow wire) feeds one primary terminal on one of the coils, and also feeds one primary terminal on the other coil.

The other primary terminal on the #1/4 coil connects via the black wire to the lefthand side points.

The other primary terminal on the #2/3 coil connects via the green wire to the righthand side points.

Points should be first dressed and cleaned. Then set the gaps. Lastly, set the timing with the engine running, using a strobe-type timing light, and also verify operation of the advancer by watching it move back and forth as the rpm's are varied.

Good Luck!

Like Patton says, verify that the wire from the left set of points is indeed going to the 1/4 coil and the wire from the right set of points is indeed going to the 2/3 coil.

While the advancer as a unit can only go in one way, the points cam can be installed 180 degrees out - that is easily checked, there´s a scribe mark on the edge of the points cam, when installing the cam the scribe mark should point towards the hole in the advancer plate like shown in the pic below. While you didn´t mess with the advancer the po might have, so it´s worth checking.

You say you havent set the valves yet, Id say thats a great deal of your problem, maybe all of it. Now you will need to take the cams out again to change any shims that need changing. Check them before removing the cams and see what you have first, write it down and figure what shims need changing