TOPIC:

Yes they would Mikaw but I'm getting tired of buying stuff for this Turd, most of the time I can get the c-clip out with a couple of picks from Harbor Freight. I have a few c-clip pliers but none that will reach the c-clip.

You say those brakes actually worked? That’s pretty amazing when you think about it. And it’s good knowing that such a critical system still works with all that neglect.
I'm an every two year bleed guy myself. Which is a pain with four bikes. But this year I bought a pneumatic bleed tool since yet another Mity-Vac crapped the bed. So, I’ll see if it makes the task more fun. I doubt it.

Moose1800,  just my luck, I have the  trapezoid MC.  Poking around and cannot seem to loosen the plastic piston liner.  Gonna try some brake cleaner and then some silicone spray.  @ Partzilla Number 9. Unless anyone has a better workable solution ?  Thanks.

Disregard.  Got it.  A little luck and the hairdryer.  I can easily see why they are NLA now.  B/C they are delicate.

If you look at the diagram of the part #9 that small dark spot on the top is a tab that snaps into the body of the master cylinder and there is another one on the opposite side. You need to push down on the piston to relieve the spring pressure and hold it down as you take a very small flat blade screwdriver and pry the plastic retainer inward and up just above the tab, when you have the tab out you will have a small gap then move to the other side and do the same thing. When you have both tabs released you can let the piston come up and pull out the plastic retainer.

Be careful prying on the plastic retainer!!........if you still can't get it out let me know.

Edit....looks like I typed that all out for nothing.......Well done

Yes, back on track. We must've crossed thru the site. Thanks, nevertheless.  Now w/ a good cleaning, rinse and some masking for the paint touch up. 
Note- BrakeCrafters technical suggest a lite honing for the bore.
 TBD.
 

78kawltd wrote:

Note- BrakeCrafters technical suggest a lite honing for the bore.
 TBD.

 

Oops, I’m grabbing the warm blanket And popcorn. This has the potential of being what’s the best oil. Some say don’t others say yes. I ran a 320 grit ball hone in mine. 

www.kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/613562-t...hone-is-the-question

78kawltd wrote:

Yes, back on track. We must've crossed thru the site. Thanks, nevertheless.  Now w/ a good cleaning, rinse and some masking for the paint touch up. 
Note- BrakeCrafters technical suggest a lite honing for the bore.
 TBD.

 

Yes I don't have a hone that small so I used a 20 gauge brass brush from my gun cleaning kit to clean the bore then rolled up some 320/400 grit sandpaper and tried to get a slight cross hatch in the bore. Also make sure both holes are open in the reservoir the smallest can get blocked very easy, I used the smallest wire in my torch tip cleaner to do that with the piston removed. Also if the reservoir isn't leaking at it's base I wouldn't remove it, that odd shaped o-ring may be impossible to find.

I have in the past used 400 grit "wet and dry" with WD40. at the end of the day any rust pitting will tear the new seals

I'll proceed with caution. Sometimes less is more too. Great tips.

Other- Ironically, I was wondering about your good suggestion also.  Relevant, but Should still be good tho.  No leaks.
"Also if the reservoir isn't leaking at it's base I wouldn't remove it, that odd shaped o-ring may be impossible to find".

Thanks again.
 

Redline Cycle sells the trapezoid M/C parts.

 

Im old enough to remember rebuilding drum brake wheel cylinders. Back then we always ran a 2 stone hone through the bore. Our beloved Kz’s are the same vintage so it would make sense to use the same process.