What Oil Do You Run?

:S

TexasKZ wrote: WD40

Less squeaky.

I tried 20/50 in a 550, and it really made the motor sluggish. Too thick. It is a plain bearing motor. Stick with 10/40.

car5car wrote:

KZB2 650 wrote: to many right answers out there .

People say:
I used ..... oil for 10 years and engine runs fine.
This is answer to all oil discussions: It doesn't matter which oil you use, if you change it on time. Flushing is very important, you need to flush engine every other oil change, unless you just bought a bike. First few changes I would flush every time.

Flushing? As in adding solvent into the crankcase?

Change the oil per the manual specified interval and there will be nothing to "flush" out.

Kidkawie wrote: I run basic heavy duty 10W-40 in all my fleet cars. I was getting 350k miles out of little 4 bangers changing the oil every 3k miles and the filter every 6k miles. I had a Dodge 1500 van bought new in 95 got 525k miles without ever opening the valve covers. another 03 Dodge with 505k miles. The 95 rusted out and the 03 blew the trans. I buy cars (as long as they're in decent shape) with 150k miles on them because I know I can stretch them out. haha

To be honest I've always used mid grade 10/40 with two Ford F150s one with 250,000 and the one I still have w/ 270 and the motor is the last of my worries.

car5car wrote: I use cheapest oil from Walmart for all my cars and bikes.

I just saw that you have a slipping clutch in a bike (Vulcan 1500) that you just changed the springs in........ this could very well be the problem.... all but a few on here only use bike oil in theirs.

FWIW

+1 for Shell Rotella 15w40 non synthetic. It is MA rated which is enough for me, and reasonably priced enough that i don't fret over frequent changes if I feel like it has sat a little too long, or I've put lots of short trips on in, and am concerned about moisture pick up.

I did try the synthetic at one point when it was on sale, and I was feeling spendy, but I wound up shorting the change interval as it found new an novel places to weep around gaskets, and was leaving a very fine mist of oil spray on the motor, my jeans, boots etc.... I haven't tried it again since the engine rebuild, as my change intervals were pretty short after putting it all back together originally, and I didn't want to toss synthetic after just 500kms. I may try again in the future, but on the whole I feel I get pretty good value for money, and the bike seems to be quite happy running the Rotella. Until someone can convince me that a motorcycle 'specific' oil that has the same rating (JASO MA), similar additive package, but costs about twice as much is somehow markedly better, I will stick to this.

Really, it's probably a much better oil than was available when the bike first came out anyway. I know there are songs sung lamenting the decrease in ZDDP and moly additives to many oils, but for the purposes of my daily driven, lightly modified, non-raced, OHC bikes, I think we're fairly safe. Your mileage, as they say, may vary.

Edit: I realized upon checking up on the available types of Oil where I shop, that I do not use the base grade Rotella. I refuse to spend my money at Walmart, for reasons which aren't important here, but the Rotella where I shop is the Triple Protection Formula, and a step up from the base. Not that price really matters, but it is closer to $30/ for 5 litres. Still not an ultra-premium price, but the mention of $13/gallon for oil rang some bells.

KZB2 650 wrote:

car5car wrote: I use cheapest oil from Walmart for all my cars and bikes.

I just saw that you have a slipping clutch in a bike (Vulcan 1500) that you just changed the springs in........ this could very well be the problem.... all but a few on here only use bike oil in theirs.

weak spring is well known problem of Vulcans, nothing to do with oil.

Look for the JASO rating on the back. It's on Rotella oil, it's a Japanese standard for Motorcycles and means it's also good for a wet clutch. I have used Rotella 15/40 quite often. My favorite oil for air cooled engines if it's something that I might like to feel I have extra protection for is Castrol Actevo in 20/50 or 10/40 depending on the application and ambient temp. I found it when looking for oil for my BMW oilhead, it was the oil recommended by BMW in Europe for those models. It's a semi synthetic, but what I like about it is it seems a thicker oil than some of the other synthetics that are around which make it hard to believe the grade on the label. I've used full synthetic Valvoline in my XR650l but found it ran quieter and the gear change felt better with the semi synthetic Castrol.

If you live in the US then usually using what you can get at Walmart works well in terms of price and availability. In my local one I can get the following motorcycle oils, Castrol Actevo, Valvoline mineral and synthetic, Mobil 1, and then the various Diesel oils, including Rotella. Other than using oils that have additives that can ruin your clutch which many car orientated oils these days contain, having clean oil in the right quantity is the most important factor, but for the solid valve lifters running on the cams of your KZ etc. I like to run something with the right amount of ZDDP additives which will mainly be found in Motorcycle specific oils or the Diesel engine oils like Rotella. For the amount of oil a bike takes it doesn't seem worth skimping a few dollars on such an important engine component. If you are looking to be frugal, then there's no doubt Rotella 15/40 at about $13 for a gallon is the way to go,

Oils designed for cars will (in the USA) at least not have enough Zinc additive for old style flat lifter type applications due to EPA rulings made a few years back. While these oils will not reap immediate destruction on your motor the general consensus seems to be that they will not be good for the cams and associated parts, they rely on the fact that newer cars run roller lifters.

car5car wrote:

KZB2 650 wrote:

car5car wrote: I use cheapest oil from Walmart for all my cars and bikes.

I just saw that you have a slipping clutch in a bike (Vulcan 1500) that you just changed the springs in........ this could very well be the problem.... all but a few on here only use bike oil in theirs.

weak spring is well known problem of Vulcans, nothing to do with oil.

If you use car oils with the additives to boost fuel mileage etc. they will have a negative effect on your clutch over time.

As Rotella is about the cheapest oil you can buy in a gallon size in Walmart, how much can you really save compared to buying the JASO rated Rotella by buying an oil that may or may not be OK?

i have been using Castrol Oil since I was a teenager, today I still use Castrol Grand Prix four stroke 10W40 motorcycle oil, I am happy with it

wrenchmonkey wrote: Gentlemen,

I searched for this already and learned one thing... the word "oil" or "oily" is used a KAW-zillion times here over the past forever!
I could not find anyone speaking directly to my question though.

Since I need to change the oil and filter; I was wondering what everyone's experiences and recommendations are?

I was going to use 20/50 weight but not certain yet.

10-40 is best, sometimes for summer I will throw one quart of 20-50 with three 10-40 but I never run straight 20-50. Make sure the oil has the MA rating.

The Rotella stuff is diesel rated and very cheap at Wally's Place. I have never read a bad post about it.

I do add ZDDPlus. In a pinch, you can add 1/2 can of STP Oil Treatment and that will bump the zinc levels up pretty close to where they should be. It also bumps the viscosity a few points but not a big problem. I ran STP in my KZ750 for MANY years so it doesn't hurt anything.

bountyhunter wrote:

wrenchmonkey wrote:
I do add ZDDPlus. In a pinch, you can add 1/2 can of STP Oil Treatment and that will bump the zinc levels up pretty close to where they should be. It also bumps the viscosity a few points but not a big problem. I ran STP in my KZ750 for MANY years so it doesn't hurt anything.

STP will boost the ZDDP and the viscosity. Don't think I'd use the stuff with 20W-50 or use it in the cold weather.