TOPIC:

It is not possible to adjust without removing cam caps on at least one camshaft. Also, be sure that the "T" mark on the timing advancer is exactly lined up with the mark on the housing.
I was faced with exactly your situation... one tooth retarded...
Before loostening the cam caps, I marked one tooth on the sprocket (that was between two chain link plates) with a dot of paint, then marked the chain plate with a paint dot, where that marked tooth "should" be, in order to advance by one tooth. I then removed the cam caps and lifted the camshaft up just enough to get chain slack to put the two "dots" together.

​​​​​Remember that, when doing this, the chain tensioner cap/spring MUST be removed. (Be sure the chain stays perfectly egaged with the intake cam sprocket)
Also, only turn the crank-shaft "clock-wise", using the 17mm hex on the advancer mechsnism.​​​

 



 

H.

Got it!

Curious to see what the tensioner wedge measurement will be with the new chain and guides

 

Everything looks extremely dry. Did you use assembly lube on the camshafts?

No, I squirted oil on the cam lobes and oiled the bearings before I torqued them down. I intend to oil the chain and sprockets as well before I put the cover on. Is this to little? I have not changed any of the bearings?

Now it looks mighty fine Jonas, but be generous with assembly lube or oil, not just a little wad.
Ge kammarna en rejäl skvätt med olja, för det tar tid innan oljepumpen har tryckt upp olja till toppen när du haft isär motorn. För kammarna är lagrade direkt i toppen och kör du ner lagrena är toppen körd.

Brgds Anders

I oiled everything good then installed the cover and the wedge cap. Turned it around a couple of times and took the wedge measurement: 6,5 mm. Before the overhaul, it was 3 mm and I could put some pressure on it and it went flush... Also, the spring in the tensioner is new. Hopefully the cam drive will be smooth as can be on these old beasts. I will put the manual tensioner on the shelf for now.

A not so fun update. For the third time in a row now I have gotten debris into the polishing wheel and or the wet sand leaving the clutch cover scratchy. Today it was -7 and I was outside using water sparingly. I will put polishing on hold for now and wait for spring...

Spring is finally here and its nice to work with the bike and have the garage doors open again! I have been polishing covers, cleaned fasteners etc. I bought a bench grinder with a brass wheel, regret I didnt do that from the start, very easy cleaning of parts. I also bought some japanese style connectors and have replaced some non original with those:

 


I am waiting for some bits and pieces like the starter o-ring, a new clutch cable and the front sprocket bolt (was going round). Ah, I also ordered the 20 mm washer between the oil filter and the spring, that one probably went out with an oil filter change 30 years ago. After that I can install the exhaust. My aim now is to be able to start it up in early may. If it runs nice, I will celebrate by ordering Öhlins shocks for it and leave the tank/fenders for a new coat. I have decided to go original black with the gold stripes

 

Very nice bike Jonas

Looking really good Jonas 

Nice indeed!

This year the brake calipers on my 82 1100-J required attention.  I hadn't been giving the brakes much thought, just replacing worn pads as needed, and I did rebuild the front and rear master cylinders not that long ago.  
Fortunately I noticed a front caliper was leaking a little fluid, and thought about the last time I serviced the calipers which was many-many years ago.

Well, I really can't believe the difference how smoothly the brakes feel and work now that that project is finished. 


Wondering how recent the brake system on your beautiful bike was gone through?  Appears the brake lines were replaced-upgraded.


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Thanks a lot!

The brakes where in terrible condition when I bought the bike, so one of the first items I refurbished was the calipers and upgraded to braided lines. The front calipers got new everything, the rear was in better condition and got a new seal, pads and dust caps. The difference was huge!

I have not done the master cylinders though, thats one of the few jobs remaining now. Maybe next winter?
 

Hi guys,

Well I have some good news and a really bad one as well.

After working some with the carb and balancing the floats I installed the last parts and started the bike. Went fine. Did one heat cycle, then retorqued the head. Took it for a drive. The rattling deaccel noice that was the instigator of my refurbishment is gone, so that is really good news!

But... I noticed now that the engine leaks oil, guess where? yes, around the cam chain o-ring.

I did another heat cycle and torqued it again, but still leaking!
I used OEM-style Versrah fiber gasket with o-ring for the head, installed it dry. Both head and cylinder was flatted by shops and completely clean, so I really did not expect this.

Do I have any options here other then removing the head again? How is it removing a head that has just been running for like 15-20 minutes? Do you think the gaskets will come off easy?
Is there any tricks to not damage the base gasket?

very frustrated now, especially as the engine ran better then ever...

thanks