And finally, Wookie's 82 begins !

Unless you're set on 6-piston calipers, the 4-pots on older Gsxr’s are easier to bleed I’m told.  Zrx guys sometimes swap the 6’s for 4’s for that reason.

Just my 2¢…

Later, Doug

StreetfighterKz wrote:

Unless you're set on 6-piston calipers, the 4-pots on older Gsxr’s are easier to bleed I’m told.  Zrx guys sometimes swap the 6’s for 4’s for that reason.

Just my 2¢…

Later, Doug

Fair point Doug, I would like to stay with the 6's if possible not least because I've got $120 worth of new stainless pistons for them !!

Sorry to see the evidence of a failed attempt Wookie. A lot of the stuff i'm looking at seems unfamiliar for OEM but have a mindful look at this. I've not used OEM "crush washers" for over a decade. Kawasaki is wider and Yamaha thinner CS of material but i don't worry about the details of such. Just replace with a Stat-O-Seal type banjo washer and all those woes go immediately away. I'd assume you're using 10mm banjo bolts? Doesn't interfere with fluid getting to where it needs to go and even used on a restoration, one would be hard pressed to tell the difference. I do a lot of brakes, this resolve has Never failed me and You don't have to Ham-Fist them down to seal. I also do my share of triples and same technique applies. Kinda bizarre, timing was impeccable for your episode. Getting ready to ship a set of these to a Friend in North Carolina, ha.           

Thanks Clay, the OEM "O" rings I mentioned are the rubber ones that sit between the calliper halves (6 pots) I think to be honest I was being optimistic about the pitting in the seal grooves not being an issue. Still I guess if they are going to fail better on the bench than the road !!! this was why I did the air in a container of water test rather than fill the system with fluid again. I have put a bid on a set from a ZX12 which will hopefully be in better shape (will pressure test them before I get too involved)

The last time I needed to replace the pads on my ZRX, I spent money on all new seals and a bunch of new pistons and went through three sets of calipers, and finally gave up in frustration. I tossed them to the back of my workbench and bought  a set of Nissin four-piston calipers and never looked back. I'd be happy to give you the whole mess if we can figure a way around whatever tariffs we might encounter.

I do not remember if I mentioned this before, but the Hyabusa used those calipers, and buying the parts from Suzuki is MUCH cheaper than the same parts feom Kawasaki. Be aware that Suzuki sell the seals as a set for one caliper, not as individual seals. He same is true of the pistons. Speaking of them, the Hyabusa pistons are aluminum rather than plated steel. You can mix and match them as you please.. 

TexasKZ wrote:

The last time I needed to replace the pads on my ZRX, I spent money on all new seals and a bunch of new pistons and went through three sets of calipers, and finally gave up in frustration. I tossed them to the back of my workbench and bought  a set of Nissin four-piston calipers and never looked back. I'd be happy to give you the whole mess if we can figure a way around whatever tariffs we might encounter.

I do not remember if I mentioned this before, but the Hyabusa used those calipers, and buying the parts from Suzuki is MUCH cheaper than the same parts feom Kawasaki. Be aware that Suzuki sell the seals as a set for one caliper, not as individual seals. He same is true of the pistons. Speaking of them, the Hyabusa pistons are aluminum rather than plated steel. You can mix and match them as you please.. 

Hi Texas, did you use the original ZRX master cylinder (I have just ordered some CBR600F4 nissins on Ebay)

Wookie,

Those calipers are the same as the ones that came stock on my TL1000R.  If I remember right, the seals for the caliper pistons are tapered on one side.  I'm certainly not questioning your mechanical abilities, I'm just wondering if the seals were possibly installed backwards.  Here's a link to an old thread from another board I'm on,  www.tlplanet.com/forum/main-forums/tls-t...liper-seal-direction

rick

rickysnicker wrote:

Wookie,

Those calipers are the same as the ones that came stock on my TL1000R.  If I remember right, the seals for the caliper pistons are tapered on one side.  I'm certainly not questioning your mechanical abilities, I'm just wondering if the seals were possibly installed backwards.  Here's a link to an old thread from another board I'm on,  www.tlplanet.com/forum/main-forums/tls-t...liper-seal-direction

rick

Always worth highlighting such things as everybody can make mistakes however they are the right way around and as I understand it the taper doesn't effect sealing but provides an opposing force that pulls the pistons back when released to prevent "drag" on the pads. Never be shy to speak up though as we are all still learning every day. I believe my issue is primarily the "pitting" in the seal grooves allowing the leak between the seal and the housing rather than the seal and the piston (the leak is limited to one or two pistons in each calliper.)

Wookie58 wrote:

Hi Texas, did you use the original ZRX master cylinder (I have just ordered some CBR600F4 nissins on Ebay)

Wookie,

Did you order a Cbr M/C or the front calipers?  If they’re the front calipers, they’re not going to fit. You need a caliper with 90mm bolt spacing and the Honda ones are 62mm…

Later, Doug

Doug the F4 is supposed to be the same as the SC33 fireblade at 90mm - guess I’ll find out next week!!

I have two pair of those forks and I don’t recall any Honda having a 90mm bolt spread.  Suzuki and Kawasaki: yes but Honda’s are always 62mm unless set up with the linked braking system.  Yamaha use some weird spacing like 110mm or something.

Later, Doug

 

That sucks, all I can do now is wait for them to turn up?