1977 KZ1000 Restomod

wrote:

The military has a funny reaction to weld failures before their missiles hit what they want them to.  Since it makes them not hit what they wanted them to.

So are all those "friendly fire" incidents in the Middle East down to poor welding? 
PS: Just poking the bear, let's not derail Callum's thread 

Finally got back to this thing on the weekend. Most of my time was spent taking stock but I figured I'd post an update...

I have decided to get somebody to integrate the brake light in the tail section. I could try my hand at it but I have no idea what I'm doing and really have absolutely no desire to do the work - this has made me realise I'm best just paying for it to be done properly. I'll concentrate on the metalwork and get the oil cooler bracket done this week. 

I am also still back and forward on the front fairing. Current plan is to get the front mudguard done and then paint the tail, tank, mudguard and fairing. I'll make a bracket for the fairing as well. Then I can put the decision off until everything else is done and I know I'm not just deciding against the fairing because I can't be bothered

The only thing I actually got done this weekend was align the back wheel and see how much needs to come off the sprocket carrier (the guy who made the hub set the offset too wide). This job wasn't as easy as I was hoping. The swingarm is from a GSX-R 750 and is offset to the left as it usually has a monoshock. The offset is hard to measure so I didn't want to rely on it. This basically means I needed to get the wheel centered and aligned without knowing what size spacers I need on the rear axle. I started off with some spacers that were in the ball park and then projected points from the frame to the floor with a square. Then I could draw a centre line under the bike and align the wheel to that. This sort of worked but the line was about 5-10mm off from the centre of the bike (going off the steering stem). I'm assuming this was a combination of the frame not being symmetrical and me not being very accurate.
 
In the end I used a laser on both the rear sprocket and the countershaft sprocket as I figured that was the only thing that really mattered. I adjusted the angle of the back wheel until the offset was the same whether measuríng from the rear or countershaft sprockets. This meant the sprockets were parallel and the rear wheel was pointing in the right direction. The rear sprocket ended up being 5mm to far left and the wheel was 12mm to the right when I measured it against the swingarm mounts and the frame bracing above the swingarm. This means I can send the sprocket carrier off and hopefully the guy can shave 11mm off it. Then I can get same spacers made up based on the makeshift ones I used for the measurements. 

Making a bit of progress. Gott the oil cooler mounts done. I know the cooler is pretty close to the frame but I'm pretty sure there will be enough air hitting it (given the way I ride it shouldn't be a problem). If the bike does end up getting a bit hot I'll drop the bottom brackets out further so it hangs vertically. At the moment it's form over function

Started on the front mudguard. Just need to get on the lathe and make some M6 threaded spacers and weld them on - that's for next weekend. 

   

 

 

   

 

Your big 10 row over kill oil cooler in this position is air flow and cooling surface ineffective. The max volume of air flow and cooling surface is reduce to an 2 row cooler. Bigger is not always better in some cases. I use a 4 row GPZ 1100 oil cooler in the right position and it is for me the right balance of air flow and cooling performance. How do you want to route the oil cooler tubing?


 

Yeah, that's the position I'll drop it out to if I need more cooling. I just hate the way it looks... Like I said, form over function in this case  

The cooler is one of the cheaper Setrab ones - and the overkill gives me some freedom when mounting it. Another option if I need it is switching to their smallest series 6 cooler (7 rows). They are a lot wider. For now it should be enough cooling and I'm happy with how it's tucked up under the tank

Cooler tubing will be routed around the side or underneath, not sure yet. Probably around the side.

I did "hide" the tubing and go the "over the top" longer way away from the cylinder and header.

 

I did consider that but it was going to make things unnecessarily complicated in my case. I quite like the sanctuary style around the side, it's also the easiest option. I guess I'll wait and see how it looks.

Finished wiring the kill switch today, that means all the wiring under the seat is done. Then dropped the bottom of the oil cooler out to see if the triples hit the steering stops or the cooler first - it just fits. I may add some extensions to the bottom bracket so it can be mounted in this position - it's parallel to the frame tubes and the headers so I can live with the aethetics

Having a wierd problem with the wiring. If the Dyna S is connected to the coils the fuse on the B-Box blows (it's similar to the m-unit). It takes a couple of seconds the first time and then gets quicker each time. I assume it's an overheating thing due to a short, but I can't find a short anywhere. Not sure whats going on there. I don't have the ignition rotor installed but I can't see that being a problem...

 

 

 


Here's the ignition/lighting circuit:

 

What coils are you using and what is the current rating of that circuit on the "B box" (is this also a motogadget unit or Axel Joost ?)

Am using the green 3 Ohm Dyna coils. Not sure of the rating on the circuit on the B-Box. It's one of Axels units so I might have send off an email.

calum wrote:

Am using the green 3 Ohm Dyna coils. Not sure of the rating on the circuit on the B-Box. It's one of Axels units so I might have send off an email.

I suspect the current with the coils and Dyna S is probably over the circuit rating for the B-box, Axel is very good as responding to emails
You could try disconnecting the coils, then reconnect one at a time and see if the unit trips as the load builds.

Godd idea. I'll grab a decent multimeter from work and check the current - my multimeter is garbage. Need to double check the coil resistance as well.