TOPIC:

wrote:

Do I have enough clearance between the headers and the oil lines? I'll be running braided lines around the side of the block ala sanctuary - quite like that look on modded z's. As far as I know, I'll just need to make sure I add extra oil (the volume of the lines and the cooler) as the oil will drain out when the engine isn't running - is this right?

That cooler looks to be just about as wide and the head tube gusset, and it looks like the gusset almost completely blocks the back side of the cooler.  It seems like that's really going to limit the amount of air flow you get through it, which would limit how much cooling it can do.

If you flip it over maybe you can move it down so that the air path is below the gusset and between the down tubes.  The oil lines may end up more hidden that way, and certainly farther away from the headers.

It seems like mounting it with the hose inputs on the top might hold the oil in the cooler lines and keep some of it from draining back, which would make setting the oil level easier, at the cost of making oil changes more complicated.  But you'd need to confirm that the lines stay filled so you know you're running enough oil.  Keeping oil in the lines and cooler would also get oil into the engine faster on startup.

Thanks - I did think about this a while back, but I guess it got lost in the pile of other things to think about
There is a hole in the gusset right in the middle of the cooler (can't find a picture of it, I'll take one tomorrow with and without the cooler). I was thinking of opening the hole up at the bottom. This would remove the restriction and shouldn't be a problem given the extra bracing. 
Theoretically, hoses up makes more sense. I'd quite like to know why sanctuary always seems to have the fittings on the bottom (also, most stock oil coolers are the same).

Got a couple more things sorted today. I'll definitely be mounting the oil cooler with the lines going down and around the side of the motor. It's only a couple of new brackets if I change my mind, but flipping the cooler upside down (fittings on the top) makes things pretty tight around the bottom triples.
I got a new front fairing, pretty happy with how it looks. The mounting plate for the rear master cylinder is sorted (need to make some spacers though - just used a whole heap of washers for now). I also got a fork brace from Fastec in the UK.

 

 

 

 

 

Will that brace clear the fender?

Not sure if it will clear a stock ZRX fender, but I assume so. I can't use one anyway as I went with 18" wheels. Fender will be made locally so I'll make sure it fits

With stock sliders and a 18" wheel it might fit. With that setup I don't think it will. Mine is a tight fit no matter what. 
Steve
 

Yeah, I've been planning on making one/getting one made so it shouldn't be a problem - there's heaps of clearance. The guys that do chrome work for me make custom fenders and I should be able to get them to shape something that I've already cut to size. The rear fender is going to be a lot more work...

Spent the last couple of weekends getting the frame ready to be welded

• Put a bit of steel rod through the steering head gusset for the lower oil cooler mounts.
• Tacked the shock mounts into place and checked alignment - perfect Used a tube with an h9 10mm inside diameter to line up the inside part of the mounts. The mounts fit in the tube perfectly - there was an audible pop when I pulled them back out.
• Put in some bracing for the shock mounts (required for MOT) and also across the back where the battery case mount was.
• Welded on the mounts for the tail.
• Tacked on some bungs for the exhaust mount (thanks DoctoRot).
• Welded on some flat bar under the tail and the seat. An aluminium base plate will be screwed to them and the electrics and a catch can will be mounted to that. I can also put some spacers in the front ones and use them for the seat brackets.
• Welded a bit of 12mm plate to the side stand mount. This extended it enough to put a 550 stand switch on the back (need a switch for the MOT).

 

  

 

 

 


This is about as good as my welds get. In the background you can see one of the dodgy ones... 

When welding a seam like that it is best to wrap the weld around the edge of the bracket (both ends).  It will be less prone to cracking that way.

wrote:

When welding a seam like that it is best to wrap the weld around the edge of the bracket (both ends).  It will be less prone to cracking that way.

Thanks. I'll have to practise that on some scrap - I usually just end up melting the edges off 

No better or worse than Mama kawasaki's welding, i have pieces if mig wire still sticking out of dodge welding on my Z1b.

True, I have a couple of pieces sticking out of a few welds on my 750 as well.