TOPIC:

I got the zx9r hydraulic clutch system working on the 650!

I swapped the stuff over to the POS daily for testing. Clutch feel is lighter, less notchy, and there's definitely less cable stretch. No issues with slipping under power afaik.


Video showing clutch rod travel

showing proper engagement/disengagement


Also made some washers for the headlight bucket.

Jig for making the washers nice and smooth on the OD with a belt sander:


Completed washer assy. will need to make the blue plastic bit out of aluminum.


Overview:


Close up:


Also bought some mirrors. These are Kiwav Lucifer mirrors and seem to be of decent quality. Made in Japan.


And a DB-01RN Koso gauge

Time for another update.

Made a headlight spacer with an aluminum base and plastic centering parts


No more ugly blue sticking out



Made a mount for the Koso gauge


Rider view:


Front view w/ headlight:


I also made brackets for the new rear sets. I need to adjust the linkages on these so they don't hang so low. They work fine, but i want a side exit exhaust on both sides coming out behind the foot pegs. Kickstand will be moved forward as the foot lever hits the spring.




got some 10mm silicone tube and made an aluminum cap for the rear master reservoir (needs shortening ). Also used a kz 750 brake line temporarily in the rear.


Here is a bracket for the rear CBR600rr tail light and license plate holder.

Be careful with a reservoir like that. I watch my old boss lock up his front brakes with one like that, although his was smaller. the fluid reservoir needs to have some component to allow for the expansion and contraction of the fluid. As the brakes get hot the caliper can build pressure. If the reservoir cannot neutralize this pressure it will end up applying pressure to the pistons making the brake hotter, and you end up in a positive feedback loop until lockup. That why reservoirs typically have that funny diaphragm thing in the cap. to allow for the expansion and contraction of the fluid to occur independent of caliper function.

Good to know. I'll probably go back to the stock reservoir then

Welded up the tail bracket and removed the plastic... needs some adjustment but good enough for now.


I also decided to get some bar clamps and put the mirrors underneath as they were completely useless above the bars. Waiting on some 50mm M10x 1.25 bolts to install the spacers i made to drop them a bit lower.


Made a new plate with integrated brake fluid reservoir for the rear brake. also made a temporary plate for mounting the zr750 exhaust for testing.


Made a bushing for the shift rod out of nylon and a spacer ring for the clutch so they are both fully functional.


Also started on the airbox. The rule here seems to be approx 2 times the volume of the engine for the internal volume, so this is about right at 12.375x2.125x3.5". hopefully this will make the bike easier to tune.



It's basically ready for a test ride now that the hydraulics are taken care of, but the EFI still needs some tinkering. I need to wire in the new MAP sensor and get the airbox on before playing with the tune again. I could put the carbs on but ehh i dont have a stock airbox.

oh, and a 550 throttle cable was close enough to work with the pull only style throttle from the gpz1100. I'm using the motion pro push pull throttle with one cable as it has the slowest ratio. I'll make a custom one eventually.

Getting closer to another go at the EFI tuning.

airbox complete. I used a Turbosmart vee port pro BOV . These are z1000 boots on the airbox... four for the TBs and one on the bottom for the inlet.


All welds done by yours truly. Definitely getting better at the aluminum MIG


Coil mount brackets


Left


And right. Need to tweak this one a bit. rear pack hits the valve cover.


All fits I also made what is currently a block off plate for the crank breather. It has a oring groove on the bottom, so it fits like stock. This got me another 1/2" of clearance for the 90deg inlet pipe underneath. I will add a fitting to this that runs to the inlet of the turbo eventually.


I have a few sections of 1.5" 16ga AL tubing and some mandrel bends for building the boost pipe. Got those from here ....The website is ancient but i got the stuff i ordered so

I also need to make a support for the airbox off of the the clutch plate mount holes.

All this is beyond me, but nonetheless very interesting. I have one comment/concern, you blocked off the case vent. How are you venting the ring blow by?

I mentioned that in the post

. I also made what is currently a block off plate for the crank breather. It has a oring groove on the bottom, so it fits like stock. This got me another 1/2" of clearance for the 90deg inlet pipe underneath. I will add a fitting to this that runs to the inlet of the turbo eventually.

Just a FYI on your choice of coils... Those truck coils pull a lot of amps from a already inadequate charging system. Depending on what year of 650 charging system your have you might have battery issues.

Some say the 78 charging system is the weakest, a 82 and higher system is better.

Car coils are meant for a much higher capacity charging system.

Saablord wrote: I mentioned that in the post

. I also made what is currently a block off plate for the crank breather. It has a oring groove on the bottom, so it fits like stock. This got me another 1/2" of clearance for the 90deg inlet pipe underneath. I will add a fitting to this that runs to the inlet of the turbo eventually.

Thanks. Boy don’t I feel like a bone head. Oops

Injected wrote: Just a FYI on your choice of coils... Those truck coils pull a lot of amps from a already inadequate charging system. Depending on what year of 650 charging system your have you might have battery issues.

Some say the 78 charging system is the weakest, a 82 and higher system is better.

Car coils are meant for a much higher capacity charging system.

Nice username they were doing fine on the first test run. But that doesn't mean I wasn't taxing the stator. The pwm returnless fuel pump will help a lot as well.

I'll upgrade to an aftermarket stator and regulator if I need to. I can always reduce the dwell as well.

Thanks for the advice though... Any other tips? I'm assuming you've fuel injected a kz as well?