TOPIC:

I just took the head back off. The top thread of the APE studs are .250" longer than the factory stud. When I hold the factory stud with the height approximately where the bump would contact the case top, the stud is taller than the APE stud. Since the APE studs are larger in diameter between the threads than the factory part, they do not have the "bump" feature. They are a constant diameter the entire length and the threads are rolled for greater strength.

They have to have the same length of thread as OEM because two of the holes are through-holes. The thread terminus acts as the bump. If they threaded them too long on the case side that would be their fault not yours. they thread the top part longer so people can deck their head and other things and not bottom out the nuts.

I pulled one of the outermost studs. The APE stud is actually a little longer (2.5 mm) than the factory stud. And even though the unthreaded diameter is 1.4 mm bigger, it is still 1.5 mm smaller than the outside diameter of the threads, without a bump to control how far it will thread in. So my installation ended up finding the bottom of the threaded hole which was much deeper than it should have been. I am going to back each stud out .25" (6.35 mm). Two studs measured 1 mm less than a stud diameter short, so 5 mm over stud diameter should be plenty of engagement.

I got the wiring from the stator all routed, and installed the countershaft sprocket cover. Hooked up the shifter linkage as well.


Since the starter cover gasket is no longer available, I had some neoprene rubber sheet left over from capping off the fuel tank. It wasn't big enough for a once piece gasket, but I am gluing it to the cover with a snug fit at the seams.

I came out to the shop to find a puddle of brake fluid under the new rear master cylinder. Lasted long enough to torque the countershaft sprocket. Should have known better buying an aftermarket part. I have an OEM master coming that will be rebuildable with factory parts.

My brother had to correct my use of the saying "two steps forward, three steps back". Said I had it backward, otherwise I would eventually end up with nothing but a pile of parts. At least with "three steps forward, two steps back" I will see a finished, running motorcycle...

Skidmark wrote:
My brother had to correct my use of the saying "two steps forward, three steps back". Said I had it backward, otherwise I would eventually end up with nothing but a pile of parts. At least with "three steps forward, two steps back" I will see a finished, running motorcycle...

True, although it sometimes feels like more steps backwards......

Oh happy day! That feeling you get when a two day snow storm is coming tonight but you get the last of your valve shims, and the welder tells you your muffler is finished!! Time to hunker down for the rest of the week and get some stuff done.

I just realized I had better get off my lazy butt and do something about the cam chain tensioner. Since I can finally put the cams in UNDER the chain I am going to need the tensioner. It needs some love...


I ordered a replacement for the plunger. It looks like it needs replacing!


I will get it all cleaned up, bead blasted and painted before reassembly. Should have done this a week or two ago.

I have used Z1E for quite a few items on my build, with good customer service. This delivery made me shake my head in amazement. I decided to have a spare base and head gasket on hand. This was the more expensive head gasket they sell, too. It is now trash from being stuffed in a box 1" shorter than the gasket, folding both ends.

That truly sucks! They obviously don't have the sharpest pencils in the box working in the Shipping Dept.

Mike

24 hour soak in Evap O Rust, a nice bead blast, and they are ready for some engine paint.