1981 KZ550A2 Update

Sounds like the cam chain is too tight. I'd like to see the plugs. Also the valve guide seals may be shot. If that's the case, oil can be getting into the pipes and burning off. Did you cut off 1/4" of the spark plug HT wires? You might want to get some new caps too. How cold is it and why did you try this at night? Did you adjust the valves?
Steve

That arcing is a sign that the insulation on the cap or the wire is cracked. Assuming that all the caps and wires are the same age (35 years?), I'd be inclined to replace them all and be done with it.

I slipped them into 1/2" tubing until I could get some new coils. Not replaceable. I put on new caps at a bike shop and noticed the difference right away.
Steve

rrsmsw9999 wrote: Yep, dipped clean. I used the old jets, valves, valve seats, orings and needles. Compressed air afterward. They passed air and looked clean from my inspection. New fuel line, clear vent and vacuum tubes. I think there is an electrical issue. The number 3 plug is arcing to the valve cover. I noticed the right side (ignition side) coil power wires were unhooked. I think I snagged them when I was putting the tank on one of the times it was off and on. I did go on a second jaunt and it revs right up red line and up to 80 or so given the conditions. I am wondering if I hooked the right side coil power wires up backward and if that would be my issue? I shudder to think of pulling the carbs again as it is so so so tight on the 550.. Argh! R

Kind of goes without saying that the plug wire arcing issue needs to be tended too. I'm surprised the bike would run at all if one of the coils was unhooked.

Good to hear you took the carbs apart. Did you hold the pilot jets up to a light to assure they pass light and the orifice was open? I'm not familiar with those TK carbs but did you also verify the pilot screw (or whatever they call it on those carbs) passage is clean?

Thanks for the replies.

It didn't run until I hooked the coil back up. The jets were clean by light check and air. So new plug wires is the consensus on the arc? Not hooked up wrong? If I have the wires power wires backward would it run at all?

This bike has 3500 miles on it. Compression was very good. I didn't do valve clearance check and adjustment based on the mileage and comp. It runs well. I didn't film my ride down the main street. I had full power in all gears and it was definitely firing all cylinders. The weather and brand new rubber limited anything too wild but it ran right up to 85 with smooth powerful acceleration. After I adjusted the idle it was much smoother and not revving high like in the video. Nice smooth idle at 1000 rpm. The misfire was definitely correlated with the spark boot arcing. The smoking is likely from the oil dumping from the clutch side when I inspected it, it poured all over the right side exhaust when drained. Should have let the oil out the plug first before removing the cover. I was also pretty liberal with penetrating oil on the pipes and motor surfaces when cleaning off 10 years of outside grunge. The smoking is not coming from pipe exhaust but from the underneath exhaust. there are no oil leaks and no spots on the floor this morning.

Why the dark? because I am impatient. :woohoo:

It was 33 degrees last night and snowing a bit. It's gonna be colder and I wanted to get a rolling ride in. I think it will sit for a while as we have some more winter like weather on the way and January looks cold. This morning I looked it over and the gas tank sealer is holding. i would recommend the KBS gold standard seal based on preliminary results.

Thanks for the input and keep it coming, I appreciate it. While mechanically inclined I am no expert and I don't mind asking dumb questions.

Also the seat vinyl keeps falling apart more each time I put my fat ass in the saddle. A nice January project to recover. The pan is a bit rusty, Kroil to the rescue.

Happy Holidays

R

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationWill these fit the bill or is there a preferred replacement spark wire set that folks recommend?

R

If you haven't done it already a vacuum carb sync works wonders to smooth out the mixture.

If your coils are the type where you can unscrew the wires then I'd just replace the wires and maybe the caps too. The OEM wire is 7mm copper core, and the caps are resistor type. You can use suppression wires and non resistor caps if you prefer but don't add up too much resistance with suppression wires and resistor caps.

With the old wire removed from the coil you can squirt some WD-40 under the outer sheath and pull them off. Then install these coverings on top of your new wires to provide some added protection. It's a little fiddly to do this but very doable. The outer covering helps provide arcing protection, or at least it's supposed to.

Good luck and keep going...

Those wires will work. Being you will be waiting on the weather, it would be a good idea to check the valves. Also the cam train. I didn't like the sound of it. The automatic adjuster might be jammed or the PO might have put the cover on without taking off the adjuster. Better safe than sorry. With all that done you can dial in the carbs and sync them. The small fours make a god awful noise when they are out of sync. :dry:
Steve

So I did a bit more inspection. It would appear I have one Kaw coil and one TEK coil which I believe is a quality replacement coil. I will get the part # to verify which model, but the I have no reason to suspect any faults at this time. The wires on the other hand are old and worn. When taking off number three plug boot, it fell off the wire. I trimmed it and screwed the cap back on. I am thinking I will just get a few feet of 7mm solid core wire and reuse the plug boots and screw caps on the coils. The boots, coils screw caps, and bushing parts all look clean and unbroken.

I noticed that the wires which are factory (have 1980 printed on them) are strands of solid wire. I am not sure of I am supposed to have one solid core wire of if the several strands of solid wire is correct? Given they are factory I assume this type is what I should put back on.

What says ye Oh wise braintrust?

R

Stranded is best due to the flex and vibration. I always had a phantom miss. Changed coils but got used. This time I got some Dyna coils that came with silicon HT leads. Not my choice but they work well. The problem with silicon/graphite leads are the connections. If I have a problem, I'll go to the stranded type. Old school. I like it.
The caps can break down and be a problem too. At $5 a piece, it's a cheap fix.
Steve

So with a new cover needed I took the seat cover off. Found a lot of rust on the pan between the foam and top of the pan. A few of the upholstery tabs were rusted away, but the full form of the pan is there and intact. Took the wire wheel to it and some penetrating oil and it is clean enough to reuse. How do I cut upholstery tabs in the pan? Thinking of some kind of die in the vise. Any suggestions? R

Well I pulled spark wires and caps for inspection and splicing. No redo possible with what I have left. Wires were hard and core corroded on two them. On the multimeter they showed continuity, but I ordered a few feet of 7mm plug wire. Cleaned up and tested the caps. 3/4 tested at proper ohms, one is dead. Have four new LD05F on order. Hopefully this will end my arcing situation and improve the engine performance. R