Kz1000B4 Ground Up.

As some of you might know, I found out that I need new engine cases as they had many small hairline cracks. It seems the bottom was replaced as they did not seem to match and the bike had been laid down in the past (found this out when the painter called saying that the tank had been repaired and the front light had deep scratches that had been painted over). I am going to do this right as I am already in the hole for new pistons, cam chain, paint for everything, new bolts, cam chain guides, and side covers. I need to do valve lapping (light). What do you think should be done in addition?

Clutch springs?
Valve springs?
How do I know if my crankshaft is bad other than "take your crankshaft into a machine shop to check for cracks and make sure the 5th bearing had less than .6mm of play"?
braking system ideas? Can I paint them?
Oil cooler, do I measure the volume it takes up and add oil to match that volume? Where do I buy metal flex hoses to the oil cooler?
How do I check ball bearings? Not very descriptive in the manual or really on anything that I really need to know.
Front master cylinder ideas? potential issues?

Will post pictures later today as I broke my phone via 'wall/phone/engine cracks' disagreement. Impute would be much appreciated.

you can paint your calipers if you dis-assemble them,or tape em up real well.
bearings you roll em through by hand and feel for roughness.if you can squeeze em in a vise it will make the roughness easier to feel.
leon

So I found some metal pieces in the engine when I cracked it. I found out where they where from! The back side of the race collar broke and some how wiggled through into the engine. I wonder why the race would break.

Tank had thousands of layers of paint!

As hard as the rest of the motor was tore up Id definitely pay close attention to the crank/bearings,it might be worth sending the crank to pearsons to have it checked out.
Id also check the trans over really good to.

well in my manual it said to check the play on the 5th bearing which was very very small, well bellow the service limit. Anything else to check? the play on the piston rods were also good.

Get a piece of 17mm rod that is straight and run it through the small end of all 4 rods to make sure its straight,if it all checks out and is straight Id suggest having the pins welded since youre that far into the build.
For the trans Id check the bearings /dogs and forks for any wear/tear,some people think you need to have the dogs back cut,I don't see the need unless something is chewed up.

What pin do you mean? Also is this master cylinder done for or can I rebuild it? What is causing that scraping on the outside of the transmission plates?

900/1000 and j series mototors have cranks that are pressed together in pieces,welding the pins keeps crank from twisting.
Basket looks normal from the picture anyway

Master cylinder looks rough,Ive never seen a rebuild kit for the rear mc off an 80 1000 ltd.

Where I started with the Dyno.

What brand is this and is it any good for a oil cooler?