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Hi, fill me in on the extended kick starter shaft!!
That's brilliant! Used for the sidewinder clearence??
Did you weld one up? or is it out of a different engine?

z1kzonly wrote: Hi, fill me in on the extended kick starter shaft!!
That's brilliant! Used for the sidewinder clearence??
Did you weld one up? or is it out of a different engine?

i didnt want to put a starter and all that stuff on it so a friend had one of them that he welded up as you said it wont hit the pipe i have a pic in here some place hope it works

guy at work brought in a hone and we got that done got home and my son and i put the jug on. man i looke down the plug hole and the pistons are super close to the head i have a 43thous head gasket on it, i am going to have to figure out how to make sure the valves wont hit??? it seems like a pain in the ass to bolt the cams in ect just to role it over to check but maybe thats not how you do it,the pistons are 13-1 with the j head i would think there would be room in there maybe someone has done this and knows if there is a problem. the cams suck they are only 380 lift so the valves wont be opening that much i wouldnt think

Get some clay strips to put on top of your pistons and in the valve notches to measure after turning motor over.
Is the outer edge of highest piston flush with top of deck? they look pretty close.
You could a shim up the bottem of cylinder to gain a little clearance if needed.

wireman wrote: Get some clay strips to put on top of your pistons and in the valve notches to measure after turning motor over.
Is the outer edge of highest piston flush with top of deck? they look pretty close.
You could a shim up the bottem of cylinder to gain a little clearance if needed.

from what i can tell the pistons sit flush with the deck i am going to have to do the clay thing wonder how much clearance your spose to have ? i figure that i will need to get the guy that is to put the cams in to do it at the same time so they will open when they are supposed to to check this .

if i recall correctly, u want .080" clearance for the exht valve to the piston and .060" on the intake.

if your piston is flush , u may be too high. remember that the base gasket will compress and bring the piston up higher.and the head gasket will compress less than its .043" original thickness.

what i do is use old gaskets , and torque down the head. then i put a peice of solder(this stuff about .060") in through the spark plug hole, and hold it over the wrist pin side of the piston. not turn the motor over, so the piston squishes the solder.then measure the solder. for saftey sake, i will suggest that u dont go less than .040", piston to head clearance. u can use the new gaskets if thats all u have. they will still seal fine if the motor has not been run.

when u realy know what u r doing, u can try less, but eventualy things will hit.
u can do the same thing with the valves.

Clever! I've been wondering what kind of clay to get myself...

Not sure on the clearances. I've seen different numbers quotes. Race vs. Street seems to change those numbers too. I think the Ape Faq had some reccomendations in it also.

Play doh works too

Now Im hungry!

thanks for the input, i guess i will be heading to the walmart for some play doh i dont play with it anymore i would think that you might also use some plastic wrap so that stuff dont get all over stuff. i think i am going to put it in the bike tonite so i can get other things done on it till the guy comes to set it up.

Having just done this, I'll tell you what I was told by the guy at the model shop. Don't use Play-Doh, it doesn't exactly retain it's shape after being compressed, it rebounds a bit. When it's a matter of very expensive bits crashing into each other at high speed, that little bit could have been the difference.

I bought a 1 pound brick of clay for $4 at the grocery store, used a pinch, and threw it all away, oh well. Small price to know there's plenty of clearance.