Z250 Single

Motorhead - thanks for identifying that and sharing the info. I actually didn't know I had to oil the pod filter lol, so its definitely not oiled. I will definitely check the voltage from the ignition to the coil, and recheck compression when I get time.

The plan is that after I get my Ps (which is now looking unlikely as I have another 2 weeks to go and my wrists still aren't up to it) I was planning to redo the wiring loom next - cos you're definitely right in that there will be other issues - I've already noticed reliability issues with lights and indicators, and I swear I saw an orange flame/spark come from the fuse box once...so in light of that, do you think its worth doing the WG coil mod? The strange thing is the bike started fine yesterday and I got to ride it around a bit, so perhaps its just the fact I kept starting and stalling on Saturday that affected my starting?

Joe - that's funny, because I'm thinking I need to fix up my petcock too. When I was adjusting the pilot screw, I noticed that fuel was seeping through the screws which are holding the petcock to the tank. I'm also thinking that, as I've been running the bike with the petcock on the reserve setting rather than on, perhaps fuel flow is a bit slow? Seeing as I didn't ride it the first time round and didn't get to experience how the bike wouldn't go without the choke, I think the adjustments to the pilot screw has already improved that a lot, based on how I felt the bike road (albeit only across a short patch of driveway)...

So seeing as its so cold and the bike is now outside, I've been compiling a list of things to buy - the pesky fuel tank cap gasket, some jets, a new pilot screw and other carb bits (rubber cap, o rings)...the list goes on.

Hopefully can get it running a bit better soon.

If you do the WG Coil Mod, consider it a temporary mod, and get yourself ready for spending the time to find the issue and repair it correctly.
Fuel leaking from petcock, have you had the petcock off and clean out your Tank? That bike sat for quite awhile didn't it? You don't want to be out somewhere and have fuel issues, clean out the tank and petcock if you haven't yet.
Good to here that you've ridden some, so you still have L plates? Next is the P Plates? You will have to have the P's for what 1 year? Or is it only 6 months?

Ps for 1 year I believe. Ls have a max limit of 1 year and no extensions, problem being with my wrist and bike issues, I haven't been able to ride. Even know I can't fully turn the throttle. I'm looking into getting a straight bar or something with minimal rake to see if that will be any better, as it's the angle that's affecting me.

I cleaned the tank out again recently and it's good. Still clean. Also using an inline filter, so perhaps its just all a bit too slow in getting to the engine atm? It's not dripping or anything, just wet if you get what I mean.

That's one thing I remember very well from living in NSW, the rules/ laws are very strict.
You may find one of the home made throttle levers could help, they also sell some. They just go over the tube/ grip, and let you push down with the palm of your hand, at the wrist area. Or you could swap to a Quad Bike 4 wheeler thumb throttle, instead of the twist type.

What really? I've never heard of these? The thumb throttle sounds like the best solution, as I'd want to avoid any unnecessary pressure on the wrist. This sounds amazing.

Yeh our laws are much more stringent than that of the states. A lot of the bikes I see on sites like exif etc wouldn't really be legal here...

I'm starting to look into rego and it sounds like a pain - there's a chance the RTA will want to inspect my bike as it hasn't been registered for so long - that might cost $421????

Yes the RTA will require a Rego inspection. I believe any licensed inspection station should be able to do it, if they have a mechanic with the certificate for Bikes.
Any Mods will have to be certified by an engineer. That's a real pain, I've seen a lot of what we here in the USA consider a Normal Mod, be required to have an Engineers certificate there in NSW. But this can be obtained, there are lots of Toys running around heavily modified. You don't want a Defect Notice from the Coppers!

So just a question - the spark plug keeps fouling and I'm starting to think this is related to the overfilling of engine oil when I first got the bike started.

So what happened was the bike was originally filled with the right amount of oil but it wasn't showing in the viewing window, so my friend suggested we fill up more. For I believe we filled about an extra 3L or so.

The symptoms of the extra engine oil have been present - the white smoke from the exhaust, and from time to time when the bike stalls, a white puff of smoke from the air filter. I've only just realized the latter is a sign of too much engine oil.

With that in mind, can I assume that this may be a reason for my spark plug fouling and how the bike doesn't run smoothly and likes to stall or bog down after revving the bike?


Image of oil spilling out from the spark plug hole.


New spark plug after running the bike in neutral after less than 5 minutes.

Otherwise it looks like it might be piston rings and valve seats

1.6 litters = full + 3 litters = wow! Lol that could very well be an issue this also reminds mi is there an easy way to clean 30 yr old oil stains off the oil window lol

Lol yeh - bit excessive aye?
No idea how to clean oil stains - does yours take a long time to get to the actual window?
Oh and compression with a warm engine was 125 PSI...

Not great right?

Don't know how long it takes on mine the window stays black empty or full lol 125 I have seen worse not sure off the top mi head wat our lil 250 should be

Ha I have the opposite problem to you - my oil window doesn't get any oil to it unless its super full.

So here's the deal now - I know I overfilled about 3L, I have drained 2 of that (putting it into a 2L milk container) but no matter how straight or sideways I put the bike, the oil won't get to the oil window.

Before I drained it, I had the bike upright and the level was definitely over...

So, should I be trusting "the window" or the manual - if the manual says 1.4, is 1.4 enough, or is it based more on how the oil is flowing in the engine and into the window?

From what I've read, for compression it seems like 130 PSI is the desired minimum. Don't thin the manual states a minimum but.

Your checking the oil in the sight window with the engine off, on the center stand, or level, right?
That plug looks heavily oil fouled for running only a couple of minutes. Reset the oil level and get it going again, it may take a bit for any excess oil to burn away, so it may still smoke. Get it to temp, and let it run awhile, and see how it goes. You may get to tear into it yet Sham.