Z250 Single

Haha Jo - I was thinking of doing that - well using a spark plug and somehow drilling it. Not recommended? I don't have a welder so I was just gonna try to drill a hole and see where to from there...

I've ordered the piston ring set now, and have my eyes on a cheap Aldi paddock stand when they go on sale on Saturday - 50 bucks! Bargin.

Do you have a pic of the muffler? I'm more interested in an exhaust pipe - I'm thinking maybe see if the wreckers have like a klx250 or something if not a nice shiny kz? I'm assuming it's compatible seeing as parts of the engine were used on it? So it shouldn't affect the performance too much or require complicated tuning. That's my theory anyways lol.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationLook for something like this, either to buy or possible hire from a Tool store. This still won't tell you a few things, like oil ring condition, valve guide/ stem seal condition, piston skirt to cylinder clearance, bearing/ wrist pin condition etc. But it is the more accurate way of finding if the engine will hold compression. It will not give you a compression value though, you still need a Pressure/ Compression Gauge for that. But this kit will have the 12mm spark plug adapter, so you can screw in a compression gauge.

Here is some mock up pics I apperantly hid mi welding rods from miself lol

Motor Head - I've found an engine machinist who does leak down tests and the rest. Waiting for a quote. Is there anything I should be aware of in terms of figuring out if the machinist is any good or not?

Jo - that looks good. Your exhaust looks like its in a much better condition than mine - mine's all rusted on the outside, and very black and sooty on the inside.

On your bike, the Head is a fairly simple assembly, especially with an adjustable rocker arm. The 4 cylinder bikes are more critical for valve installed height because of the shims.
As far as a leak down test, well that should be straight forward for any experienced Machinist/ Mechanic. I would think on a single cylinder bike motor, they wouldn't charge much. You might get lucky and find someone who will help you out. Ask what Beer they like, and buy him a box,
I got more stuff done with a box of Beer or Cash money from the places up the coast where I used to live.

Apart from the re-honing and valve seat cutting (which requires a special tool supposedly) the engine maintenance work doesn't seem too difficult... I've learnt that it's never as easy as the manual makes it sound but is not most of the work about checking if the part needs replacing and then replacing it? So if I am planning to redo the gaskets, seals and rings anyways, is it possible to skip on the mechanic and machinist?

Definitely for peace of mind it is a better idea to get it checked out. I'm asking only to see if there are specifics which they could do which may not be in the manual or someone like me with not much skill or knowledge can't do without instruction?

That being said I think it would be invaluable to learn from a mechanic and be able to ask questions and get pointers...I might start by going to the wreckers and seeing if they know anyone? I think the guy I'm thinking of are mechanics as well actually...

If you can get the compression test to come out within the range of serviceable limit and even. Then you would make a decision based on that. Good compression, no major leaks, engine smooth and quite, then why take it apart. Compression Low, or engine noisy, leaking, using oil etc. Then if you are wanting it reliable and have the time/ funds to repair it. Best to fix it, then it should be good for many years to come, with just maintenance.
Being able to learn from someone is worth its weight in Gold, hopefully the person would explain everything well to you, which should help. Rebuild of the engine Top End takes special tools, which are expensive for just one or two jobs. Better to pay to have the machine work done, or if you can access the tools for cheap, and you feel confident on their usage, then do it yourself. Most places don't hire out these tools, but you can try calling around some tool rental stores to check. Look in your manual, and you'll see the special Valve Seat Cutters, then there is possible guide or even seat replacement needed, only an inspection will tell. Also Micrometers, Bore Gauges, Feeler Gauges, Hone, Possible Boring Bar, solvent, compressed Air, etc. It takes quite a bit of tools to do a proper job.

Yea for a bike that the muffler can rusted off of I lucked out on the rest of the system also I must agree any chance to learn should be taken over hear there is a bike wrecker I know of that does repairs or for half the price he erik show u how to do it I listened about rebuilding carbs for 20 bucks that way lol either way having the knowledge is having power and always worth while this is where some of the old small shops come in handy also I have got some of mi best best looking paint jobs for a 6 pack and as big as cans of fosters is that should go along way lol

Hmm yeh I spoke to a couple places - sounds like honing can be done for cheap, so I might go ahead and get it done. I don't think I have a major leak or anything, but like you said, may as well do it right.

Also went to a wrecker which was very cool. So many parts, it was amazing. Thinking I'll be having a lot of fun going through their stuff - I need to get another set of hand controls in the future, cos all the names have been rubbed off mine and I don't have a horn button anymore...I think that's one of the requirements for the road worthy...

Anyways, parts arrived. Very surprised at how quickly they came, but I ordered the wrong Tensioner Spring!!! Swapped a 1 for a 0 and now I have an even longer spring than my original, which is only 2mm longer than the service limit...

So I'm thinking I'll probably wait to see if I can get a new one before reinstalling the cam chain tensioner? What do you guys think? I know I asked the same question last time, but seeing as my cam chain tensioner did break, I'm thinking its not worth it if a new one is out there?

Oh and I still don't know which fuel cap gasket is the right one - they didn't come labeled...

Awesome!