Freebyrd's 81 KZ1000 Build

Would assure that the i.c.igniter is properly grounded, (i.e., where the black/yellow wire from the igniter attaches to ground).

With near-battery voltage being received at the coil, a weak spark could result from a bad coil and/or weakness in the secondary loop between the coil high tension ports (where the plug wires connect to the coil), including wires, caps and/or connections.

Perhaps the plug wires and the coils need replacing. But, it's less expensive to first replace the plug wires. And would suggest solid core Dyna 7mm plug wires from Z1 Enterprises, which come with the caps already built in. This should resolve any issue of voltage leaking from deteriorated old plug wires.

Good Fortune!

I took a peek at that black and yellow wire and it looks SUSPECT. Very good suggestion. I'm going to take care of that ASAP and make sure it's good. I do not like the whole situation with my harness, and it will get rewired completely in the winter.

Anyone know what year Katana 600 swingarm would fit? I'm not sure of the differences between the years. Anyone know offhand? Ideally I want to be able to fit the zx-9 wheel between it. Thanks!

UPDATE!

So I replaced the ground wire that was suspect (the black and yellow one from the ignitor) and then cranked it over looking for spark and spark became EXCELLENT again! Great call as usual Patton!

So I tried to fire it up, and nothing. I sprayed some starting fluid in and it fired! Then it sputtered out once the starting fluid was gone. So now I am back to fuel issue. I need to clean the carbs again, they have been sitting. So I will clean those and hopefully give it another shot this weekend!

I have another question though and not sure if it is affecting anything. I have the emmission port valve covet that has the plate on each side. Right now, I have the plates on that have the "barb" to attach the rubber hose to. I am going to just connect them to eachother for now and not run any emmission equipment. For now though, I have them both uncovered. Is this causing a vacuum issue or are these just venting to atmosphere and no big deal? I understand when I get the bike going, I want to cover them just simply so water and debris do not get inside, but is there any negative effect on how it runs with having them open to atmosphere? Thanks everyone!

I also have a carburetor question for you guru's. My carbs have the small rubber plugs inside of the carb that cover the pilot jets. Are these plugs necessary? What do they do?I always have put them back in, but are they necesaary? I'll be digging into these this week. Thanks!

another update.

cleaned the carbs spotlessly tonight. I hooked them up and tried to start it, and nothing! No sputter or pop or anything. I sprayed starting fluid again and it sputtered, but nothing off the carbs. Am I missing anything? Any ideas? Really stumped here. I have compression, great spark and clean carbs.

Fuel is getting in the bowls and the bowls are filled up, just nothing getting to the engine it seems.
thanks!

I know that you probably checked this stuff, but just to rule it out. Have you checked the float levels via the clear tube test yet? Are they correct? We are talking about BS34 carbs right? When you cleaned the carbs, did you pull the seat out for the float valve? They should have little screen filters attached at the top. Those get clogged pretty easy, and may still allow fuel, but not at an appropriate rate. Ask me how I know about those little buggers.

Have you insured that the petcock is flowing properly, and there are no kinks in your fuel lines? If your fuel supply is flowing well, and the float levels are properly adjusted, then I would think that you still have some form of blockage in the pilot circuit, or starting circuit. It seemed to me that the BS32's on my previous GS750 were very sensitive to being properly cleaned. I had to pull them three times before I finally got all of the junk out of there and the bike would run on it's own. I did have a lot of sputtering at first before I got those filter screens cleaned out.

Thank you Josh!

I checked the fuel level using the clear tube method and fuel levels were just a few mm's underneath where the fuel bowl meets the body which I believe is correct. One question about the test. I filled the bowls, hooked up the tube, opened the screw and fuel came up the tube and settled a few mm's below where the bowl meets carb body. Then after trying to bend and turn the hose tighter to the bowl to see how it looked RIGHT next to it, the levels went up, I had air in the clear line and then my measurment had changed. Is this just due to me bending it too tight and moving it around a lot?

Are the screens attached to the seat for the float valve? I pulled the floats and float valve to clean up the passageways, but didn't pull that seat. I'll have to look into that. These are the stock carbs. Not sure exact model, but I think they are BS34's.

What really bothers me is I cleaned these before, many times, and the bike ran great last year with these jets and settings. I just had it up to maybe 3-4K and had to tear into it again, but I know the settings were good. The biggest annoyance is I can't even get a sputter out of it. I figured at least a little fuel would get by at least one carb and give me a glimmer of hope by coughing.

Immediately after an unsuccessful effort to start the engine, is there any sign of fuel on a removed spark plug?

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote: Immediately after an unsuccessful effort to start the engine, is there any sign of fuel on a removed spark plug?

Good Fortune!

No gas on the plugs :dry:

I'm not sure I would trust that the fuel level is correct if there were air bubbles in the clear tube. It seems to me that you should be able to move the tube around without the level actually changing. It works just like a water level after all. As far as the filter screens, there is a small fork shaped clamp that is retained by one small screw. Pull the screw, and then slide the clamp out from the groove on the brass valve seat. Then you should be able to pull straight up on the seat and remove it from the carb body. It will likely be difficult since there are two o-rings on the brass piece and they get hard and gummed up. When the valve seat is removed, the screen is pressed onto the top end that is inside the carb body when installed.

Read through the pdf on this link. BS carb cleaning tips stolen from the enemy It will show you all you need to know for a complete disassembly and cleaning of the Mikuni BS series carbs. It's from a Suzuki website, so the choke linkage info will be different, but you can get the idea.

Very nice link! I appreciate that! I'm going to set the fuel levels, hopefully by the end of this weekend. If that doesn't work, I'm not sure what to do next. I'm baffled it won't even sputter or cough

i find that if u lower the tube during the clear tube test, it will allow more fuel to enter the bowl and fill the tube. if u then raise the tube the fuel level will go up in the bowl .
i put a line on the tube and make sure it stays at the same place on the side of the bowl all the time. i line the tubes line up with the top of the bowl, turn on the fuel, then measure down to the fuel level.
its a lot easier to use an auxiliary fuel tank so u can work on a bench beside the bike. i clamp the carbs in a workmate bench, with the bowl hanging below the bench.
it just make me feel it is more accurate this way.
what is the fuel level suposed to be on your particular carbs ?