Freebyrd's 81 KZ1000 Build

Note that the "pilot jet" is supposed to receive its air supply from the "air pilot jet" and not any extra air which could be allowed into the pilot circuit due to a missing or leaking plug.



When later test running, could try enriching the pilot mixture by turning the pilot mixture adjustment screw counter-clockwise which is supposed to allow more mixture into the carb bore.

I don't know the default position for the mixture screws as number of turns backed out from lightly seated (should be provided in the FSM).

Good Fortune!

Well I blew out the passageways. They seemed clear already, but I made sure they were. Bike still didn't want to run on it's own or below about 4K RPM. I took one of the pods off and covered it up with my hand while I cranked and the bike started to sputter a little and seemed like it wanted to maybe fire on its own. This made me think that maybe it's running too lean to start? I had #40 pilot jets in there and had #42.5 jets in the garage, so I threw those in and it didn't make a difference. I had Larry do the head, maybe he ported it well? So it needs MUCH more fuel? Any suggestions?? I'm thinking I need to increase jets more, but don't want to chase a dead end if anyone thinks it could be something else.

Thanks

If Larry ported the head it's going to flow substantially more air. You would need to compensate with more fuel. Did you pay him for a port job? Even the street port is quite a bit more flow.

I didn't pay for a port job, I had just requested a valve job. He might have done a little? I'm not sure at all. I'll have to find out. Any jet suggestions?

I went through everything again, even bought a dynojet kit for some stupid reason and that didn't work. Though I think the pilots need to be upped in size. Any suggestions? Any ideas where to start here? It still will not start unless the carbs are completely choked off by using my hand. Then it will start to want to fire up. I'm thinking jetting? I need a starting point from some more experienced people before I just start buying more jets. In the dynojet kit I got a new needle and mains. Any and all help would be enormously appreciated. Thanks!

While using carb cleaner spray, is the spray visibly exiting through the orifices into the carb bore?

If the pressurized spray isn't getting through, the unpressurized gravity fed mixture likely won't get through either.

Good Fortune!

I apologize in advance if this sounds critical; it's not meant to be, but what is it that makes pods worth all this grief? Is it anticipated that there will be a performance improvement across the powerband, is the bike being set up for drag racing, or what? Again, sorry this isn't helpful, but I am curious as to why folks would go through this much pain just to install different air filters. I am under the impression that even Larry recommends using the airbox for most street applications; maybe I'm wrong. Ed

Patton - the bores are all clear, I can see spray coming through every orifice.

650ed - no offense taken. I never had the airbox to begin with and just had pods. I was going to keep them because of ease of use for removing carbs and such. But after another frustrating weekend, I am seriously considering finding an airbox.

Honestly, If I had an airbox for the bike in my garage this weekend, it would have already been on the bike. Anyone have a stock airbox setup they no longer need?? Based on all previous postings on pods vs airbox debates and the current problems I am having, I don't think they are worth it. I just wish the bike had come with the airbox...

Could be mistaken, but thinking the pods aren't to blame for the lack of mixture being drawn into the combustion chamber with throttle closed.

On the intake stroke, the suction created and pulled through the intake valve is supposed to draw fuel from the carb pilot orifices into the carb bore and on through the intake port into the combustion chamber.

Insufficient suction during the intake stroke might result from a non-opening intake valve, or a leaking exhaust valve, or other source of compression leakage from the combustion chamber.

But as I recall, the compression tested okay, and the spark plugs are staying completely dry, and the fuel level is correct, which keeps suspicion toward the carb pilot circuit.

Is it possible that air is leaking past the rubber plugs into the pilot circuit?

Good Fortune!

Thanks for clearing that up; now I understand. According to Kawasaki.com the following bikes share the same airbox assembly, so maybe this will help you find one:
KZ1000-J1 (1981)
KZ1000-J2 (1982)
KZ1000-K1 (LTD) (1981)
KZ1000-K2 (LTD) (1982)
KZ1000-M1 (CSR) (1981)
KZ1000-M2 (CSR) (1982)
KZ1000-P1 (Police 1000) (1982)
KZ1000-P10 (Police 1000) (1991)
KZ1000-P11 (Police 1000) (1992)
KZ1000-P12 (Police 1000) (1993)
KZ1000-P13 (Police 1000) (1994)
KZ1000-P14 (Police 1000) (1995)
KZ1000-P15 (Police 1000) (1996)
KZ1000-P16 (Police 1000) (1997)
KZ1000-P17 (Police 1000) (1998)
KZ1000-P18 (Police 1000) (1999)
KZ1000-P19 (Police 1000) (2000)
KZ1000-P2 (Police 1000) (1983)
KZ1000-P3 (Police 1000) (1984)
KZ1000-P4 (Police 1000) (1985)
KZ1000-P5 (Police 1000) (1986)
KZ1000-P6 (Police 1000) (1987)
KZ1000-P7 (Police 1000) (1988)
KZ1000-P8 (Police 1000) (1989)
KZ1000-P9 (Police 1000) (1990)
KZ1000-R1 (Eddie Lawson Replica) (1982)
KZ1000-R2 (Eddie Lawson Replica) (1983)

And just to double-check the hose connections - - -

Patton-I tend to agree that it should still suck the fuel up, but when I cover up the intake with my hand, it starts to sputter to life. It's so strange. Are you referring to possible air going thru the rubber o-ring on the air/fuel screw itself? I have all vacuum ports and plugs and everything capped off (except for one for the petcock which is always hooked up to the petcock). Also have gaskets on the air/fuel screw but they are older.

Thank you for the reference 650ed!

I'm not sure where exactly the problem lies. I want to try the stock airbox, but not sure that will solve my issue. I guess it can't hurt.