TOPIC:

Philk7 wrote:

ohh sorry!

your front master cylinder!

thank!

I bought it from eBay many years ago.
It was from a 1999 Kawasaki ZX6-RR.
It works great!

cafekz750 wrote:

cooper1320 wrote:

any updates??

Not yet. I have been busy with my other motorcycles/track time.
I am starting on the next KZ project for this bike. I think I am going to make a rear cowl to replace the passenger seat (the '80 and '81 has a split front/rear seat). That way I can keep the stock front seat and switch out the rear seat for when I would like to ride with my wife.
Also, I am going to install a set of GPZ750 cams in to the original motor and trim off some more weight.
Planning and plotting...

So, on a whim last night I decided to check my valve clearances and install the intake cam of the set of '83 GPZ750 cams that I have (0.5mm more lift than the stock KZ750 cam as well as a longer duration). I decided to only install the intake cam due to what others have experienced which is increased mid-range and top end without moving the whole power band up. I guess I will get to see! Here is the thread that gave me the idea: Mixed Cams
Valve clearances have been set; the four intakes to 0.004" and the four exhaust valves to 0.006" (range is 0.003" to 0.007"). Now the top end of the engine is bolted up and ready to go.
Next up is to finish installing the kick start components from a KZ650 in my KZ750 cases. When this is done, I will be able to swap this motor in and let it rip!

cafekz750 wrote:
Next up is to finish installing the kick start components from a KZ650 in my KZ750 cases. When this is done, I will be able to swap this motor in and let it rip!

I did an initial mock up of the kickstarter components, but had to put the project on hold due to a tired return spring.
I hope to post a few pictures of the swap if I remember to bring the camera to the garage and then to actually use it!

Photographic evidence of progress!

This past weekend I finished the kickstarter project. Last night I swapped the motors from the '80 KZ750E1 to the '81 KZ750H2 with the '83 GPZ intake cam and the KZ650 kickstarter installed. I got everything else together and I fired up the bike this morning.

Started on the first kick!

I would post pictures right now, but the bike is rather filthy from the motor swap. I am hoping to clean up the bike this weekend before snapping a few pictures (although, you can't see the cam and with the kickstarter installed it looks just like a KZ650 engine).

Took the bike to work with me this morning and everything is working well. I need to adjust the clutch and turn up the idle a little along with a carb sync this weekend.

Next project: electrical, planning on removing the battery (and starter solenoid, starter motor, etc) and only having a kickstarter!

How did you like the power with the GPz750 intake cam and KZ750 exhaust? Noticeable difference?

steell wrote:

How did you like the power with the GPz750 intake cam and KZ750 exhaust? Noticeable difference?

Well, to better answer your question, I went for a 30 mile ride during my lunch break today.

I am not as wowed by this mod as I thought I might be.

Short answer: there is a noticeable increase in power.

The longer answer: the power is better between 3-6000rpm, but it does flatten out between 6-7000rpm before getting into the power band. With the stock cams, there was a flat spot was around 4-5000rpms.

The bike does seem to be a bit rich and I haven't had an opportunity to synch the carbs as of yet. I am planning on getting to that this weekend if time permits and then to sort out the jetting (which was fine for the temp motor with stock cams).

More to say on the subject later, but I gotta run.

that kick start mod is awesome I might have to do that.

I received a PM regarding my lowered gauges and turn signal installation. I thought I would add it to the thread for documentation.
To lower the gauges, I first decided how far I would like them to go. Then I found out how far they could go with the existing wiring! This was about 2 inches lower without modifying the wiring, if I remember correctly. I went to the hardware store about bought two bolts for the gauges that were about 2-2.5 inches longer and two bolts for the the ignition switch that were 2-2.5 inches longer (this is tricky as they mount from the bottom into a "blind" hole). Along with the bolts, they sell .25, .5, .75 and 1 inch nylon spacers that match the thread diameter nicely (I used the same spacer when making my rearsets). I bought a bunch of those and then set out on lowering the gauges.
On to the work!
I grabbed a couple spacers and longer bolts and mounted the ignition switch. I, then, ran the longer bolts for the headlight and gauges all the way through the top triple. I then used a couple of spacers, followed by the gauge bracket and then the headlight bracket and used washers and nylon locking nuts to secure the assembly. I also used rubber washers in the assembly to help with vibration. This displaces the lower mount of the headlight bracket and also the mounting point for the brake line splitter. I used some spare aluminum for a bracket using the mount on the lower triple for the splitter.
There, done!
For the turn signals, you can use the bolts that hold on the headlight or get fork mounted signals. I made my own bracket out of aluminum and mounted the stems to bracket, approximately where they would be on a non-LTD model.
Hope this helps!
I will try to look on my computer for more pictures of the assembly that shows what it is I am trying to say.

cafekz750 wrote:

Here a couple of shots of the lowered headlight and gauges. Earlier in this project I have shots with the headlight and gauges in the stock position. Looking back...what took me so long. Of course, I am not done yet!
From the cockpit (yes, I have a shorter throttle and clutch cable that I haven't put on yet):

From the side:

Great write-up and ideas brought to light. I have not spent much time on this site for a couple of years, so I have not seen your thread until today, but I feel like I have been operating in a parallel universe with my own project bike. Some major differences, to be sure, but many of the same project compoenents and ideas/solutions (i.e., rearsets (mine are modded from a GPZ), clubman bars, forks (I switched to the shorter KZ750E trees and forks) and what to do about the rear seat and tail (I will hold my bodywork and seat mods until I am ready to do my own write-up). I like your bike, and your approach to the upgrades.

apeman wrote:

Great write-up and ideas brought to light. I have not spent much time on this site for a couple of years, so I have not seen your thread until today, but I feel like I have been operating in a parallel universe with my own project bike. Some major differences, to be sure, but many of the same project compoenents and ideas/solutions (i.e., rearsets (mine are modded from a GPZ), clubman bars, forks (I switched to the shorter KZ750E trees and forks) and what to do about the rear seat and tail (I will hold my bodywork and seat mods until I am ready to do my own write-up). I like your bike, and your approach to the upgrades.

Apeman:
Thanks for kinds words!
I am interested in seeing your bikes and projects when it comes time for you to post them or do you have a build thread?

Update:
Well, I almost sold all of the KZ stuff including the bike I have been working on. I had a good cash offer that would have gone towards my track days and other bikes.
After much dithering on my part, I chose to keep the ol' KZ for another year in an attempt to actually finish cafe racer project (I have had this bike for over 15 years now).
Part of my motivation for considering selling the bike and KZ stuff was that I seemed to always make the project a bit of a moving target. So, the KZ will be out of service until I can get this project done once the snow flies.
First step in the project will be to get one of my other bikes in to the role of my daily mule instead of the KZ. This will happen over the winter. During this time, I need to figure out what parts I am going to use (or need to get) in order to finish this bike!

So, back to work on the bike.

Well, what do I have?

I have a 1981 KZ750H2 LTD.
I have a 1982 KZ750H3 LTD parts bike some of which has been sold.
I have a 1980 KZ750E1 except for the frame, fork, wheels and a few other bits.

This summer, I finally got around to a project that I had the parts for a couple of years. Installing a kickstarter on my KZ750H2 engine. As you may now, the KZ750 cases are the same as KZ650; meaning everything is in place for adding a kickstarter. (I have only verified this on the KZ750H2 and H3 motors) Well, I have replaced the starter clutch in a couple of KZ750 engines so I have been basically one step away from splitting the cases before. This summer, I spent about 5 hours total to tear down, split the cases, install the kickstarter and reassemble the engine. Everything went really smoothly and when it came time to start the engine, it started on the first kick! Then, the kickstarter lever fell back and I could hear the teeth on the ratchet mechanism clattering.
Doh!
Well, I thought I picked up a tired spring so Mark Wing sent me a set he had for nothing! Nice guy! But, it didn't solve the problem.
Doh!
So, disheartened, I pulled the motor about a week after it was in and installed my KZ750E1 motor which I had in before in order to keep riding the bike.
A few months go by and last week I decided that I was going to try to figure this out. Well, It turns out that in the Haynes manual for the KZ650, I had read page 26, 27 and 28 for dismantling and page 47 for reassembly. I had neglected to read page 41 which talk about examination and renovation of the lower crankcase components. This section discusses the fact that the kickstarter must be properly indexed, meaning the ratchet and the shaft on have dot on them that should line up! The dot on the ratchet is cover by the end cap so it has to be removed to be seen. Guess what, mine was not lined up correctly. The components were purchased on eBay and the breaker must have taken the kickstarter mechanism apart and reassembled them before selling. How funny! This is completely my fault for overlooking this; I just moved ahead with the project due to my own enthusiasm. Well, second time around and everything went really well again and it only took about 3 hours! So, if you are considering this for your motor, please ensure the marks are indexed correctly as the only way to fix this is to split the cases again!
Here is a picture of the motor: